1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Rock n Roll bed installation problem!! PLEASE HELP!!

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by Harribo, Oct 29, 2013.

  1. Harribo

    Harribo Member

    Messages:
    242
    Location:
    Wollongong NSW
    So i've just started to think about installing my kustom kombi rock n roll bed and i think i've run into a major problem!

    As my Kombi was imported from the UK way back when it was fitted with an additional belly pan underneath the floor. This pan is fixed to the underside of the chassis cross members so if i drill through the floor to attach the legs of the r n r bed I wont be able to reach the nut as obviously the belly pan will be in the way. So, do I;

    1) Use a longer bolt? The belly pan doesn't seem as thick as the actual floor itself so not sure how structurally sound this would be

    2) Cut a hole in the belly pan to allow access to the underside of the floor then have it welded up later once the bed is in and signed off by the friendly compliance man!

    Anyone out the that can help me with the above or an alternative solution??

    [​IMG]

    Cheers

    John
     
  2. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    17,068
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Have you asked Kustom Kombi if they've come up against this issue before? :rolleyes:
     
  3. Harribo

    Harribo Member

    Messages:
    242
    Location:
    Wollongong NSW
    Just sent him a message, not sure how long it will take him to reply thought, was hoping to crack on with it this weekend!
     
  4. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    17,068
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Well my 10 cents worth...... not option 1. I agree with your rationale re strength.

    Assuming removing the belly pan prior to seat installation, and refitting it afterwards is out of the question....

    Option 2, cutting an accurate socket head / lower washer size hole directly below the mounting points would seem the only option.

    But as I said, just my 10 cents worth, as I've never done, helped out, or even observed the fitting process. :rolleyes:



    Hopefully some other KK customers here, will reply with better advice. :)
     
    Last edited: Oct 29, 2013
  5. Harribo

    Harribo Member

    Messages:
    242
    Location:
    Wollongong NSW
    Thanks Grantus, thats what I thought, drill a socket sized hole in the belly pan and use an extension socket to reach the nut. Then i'll get it welded up later.

    Just need to remember to measure twice, cut once as my old man used to say!!
     
  6. kombivan

    kombivan New Member

    Messages:
    853
    Location:
    Forster
    Suggestion only.

    1. Drill Hole and cut large hole under floor to gain access then use steel backing plates not less than 75 mm x 50mm x 3 mm must be fitted. to floor then weld Nut to it then cover Hole in underfloor and weld up. With Nuts welded in place removal and replacement of seats is not a problem from inside.

    2. Discuss these options with Blue slip guy and the engineer that is going to approve the changes as for this you will need an engineers cert on the fastening points.
     
    Last edited: Oct 30, 2013
  7. Harribo

    Harribo Member

    Messages:
    242
    Location:
    Wollongong NSW
    So I can't weld or have access to welding equipment unless I pay someone to do it.

    I like your idea no. 5 though I think I'll run with that. Good thinking about welding the nut. I was wondering how I would go about it in the future if i needed to remove the seat!

    At this stage it'll just be used as a bed but i'll be getting it re-complianced soon from a 2 to a 4 seater so I guess i'll need to get it all certified for that
     
  8. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    17,068
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    The only valid point in this post, (apart from the opening line), is number 5, if you really want to go down the welding path, & number 6. :umm:

    Number 1 is invalid, as hollow gyprock anchors don't come in a size large enough, and are designed for verticle shear strength on the bolt, not a tension load, as needed in this situation.

    Number 2 will leave you with potential rust issues down the track:

    Number 3 refers to Number 4, which effectively is a spacer the size of the void.The tensile strenth of the tube, would need to be enough to not deform under compression from the tightened bolt, to say nothing of the accuracy required in the position and welding of the said combination of top and bottom washers with the tube, to accept an even load.


    As I said before, hopefully some other KK customers here, or indeed the KK seller, will reply with better advice.
     
  9. Blunderbus

    Blunderbus Active Member

    Messages:
    551
    Location:
    St Helena, Melbourne .
    I replied in the other thread but rivnuts/nutserts are ideal for this scenario.
     
  10. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    17,068
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    The right size and correctly installed..... excellent solution! :)
     
  11. kombivan

    kombivan New Member

    Messages:
    853
    Location:
    Forster
    also you could get some floor anchors from another vehicle cut them out then cut holes in your floor put them in and weld them up this way you don't even need holes in the underside but talk with an engineer about this as he may require it done a specific way to retain strength at the fastening point or Don't panel beaters put seat belt mounts in vehicles some of these in the floor would do a similar job i think.

    rivnuts look to me like they would pull straight out in a accident. because thee is no solid plate to stop it pulling out this is the purpose of large construction washers to give a large surface bearing value so it dosen't pull through.
     
  12. Harribo

    Harribo Member

    Messages:
    242
    Location:
    Wollongong NSW
    I agree about the nutserts, just had a look at them. I'm not sure they would be strong enough and the KK bed comes with a mounting plate for a reason I think. Using the nutserts would still leave me with the issue of installing the mounting plate on the underside of the floor. Looks like i'm going to have to cut open the belly pan to get at the bottom of the floor to allow me to install the mounting plate...
     
  13. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    17,068
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    If the mounting points line up with the seat mounting points, and are already reinforced, and thck enough for seat mounting by VW, nutserts will work well.

    If they are just through the floor, they will need a mounting plate, or equivalent washer.
     
  14. Harribo

    Harribo Member

    Messages:
    242
    Location:
    Wollongong NSW
    they are just going through the floor so will need the washer or plate

    lining up with the seat mounting points would have been far too convenient!
     
  15. kombivan

    kombivan New Member

    Messages:
    853
    Location:
    Forster
    Why don't you just remove the belly pan I have 4 t3's without belly pans will also be benificial when you replace your water pipes with stainless ones later on.
     
  16. kombivan

    kombivan New Member

    Messages:
    853
    Location:
    Forster
    just a thought but if you have an underfloor mounting plate why not weld the nuts to the underside of that drill holes in the floor for the nuts to sit in then weld the mounting plate to the floor on top then you just bolt the seat to that. But I guess that would burn off the paint underneath and you would still have to put holes in to seal it. So I guess number 5 is still the best option. and you can weld the nuts to the construction washers first then you only have to tack in the washers. you want a washer about one eight to three sixteenth thick and a diameter of 30mm atleast with a three eight - half inch hole in it. Also prime all the surfaces with weld through primer.
     
  17. TheYorkieBar

    TheYorkieBar Active Member

    Messages:
    739
    Location:
    Kurrajong - Sydney - NSW
  18. melissa

    melissa Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,243
    Location:
    Newcastle NSW

    What water pipes? It's a Bay.
     
  19. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    12,688
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Kombivan. Stop guessing and dont give people information if you dont know what you're talking about. It confuses things more than necessary.

    http://www.infrastructure.gov.au/roads/vehicle_regulation/bulletin/pdf/vsb_05_b.pdf

    Not sure if this has been superceeded but would expect dimensions to be same

    relevent material about P 20.
    conforming to floor shape if ness.
    As Grant pointed out. you may be lucky enough to line up with existing factory bolt holes.
    Info from someone who has done it with info from Jamie would be helpful.

    Easier to cut a larger section from belly and plate it .

    i see no reason that you cannot use appropriate epoxy or sikka to secure plate and welded nut from below.

    From memory they didnt have to be welded in position. So only requirement is fixed to allow bolt tightnening /untighten.

    The Rivnuts would not have sufficient load properties

    col
     
  20. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,569
    Location:
    Brisbane
    As Col stated.
    Please don;t use Rivnuts for anything that is important.
    They have their place as a quick fix for non structural items.
    But I can say from personal experience that they are crap at anything structural.
    For them to work the hole has to me micro millimeter perfect or they fine grip threads pull out and they spin during install and don't crush down far enough.
    Even if they do crush far enough you only have about 5-6mm flange around hole. You should certainly have more meat than that and of a bigger thickness.
    The nut plates Roy sells are about 30x50x3mm.
     

Share This Page