1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Rust under the pop top...

Discussion in 'Bay Tech Clinic' started by Necro, Nov 25, 2013.

  1. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,830
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Yeah. The pillars and possibly under window and floor/steps will suffer from the water.
    As its already started it is important to deal with that ASAP.
    Flood it with lanolin or penetrol straight away and get it sorted soon as its a safety issue. Not much protecting you in the front and any loss of support compounds that situation.
    If its already been done and still an issue the insides will be pretty cactus.
    Have all the cavities along the roof and B pillars checked as well and treated if still sound enough.
    the a pillarand check part is definately a task for someone who has the tools and skills.

    have a go at the roof yourself if necessary. Dont be tempted to seal it with silicone .
     
  2. tomhic

    tomhic Active Member

    Messages:
    345
    Location:
    Glenelg Nth, SA
    I think I bought one of your cars a few ago!

    tom
     
  3. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,830
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Major denial :)dont think it was one of mine . Unfortunately i dont have exclusive rights to dodgy practices. :lol:
    a few 'professional restorers 'and 'others' like it as well.

    when i was about 16 we helped a mate cleaned up a car. we pulled out newspaper [lots], loaf of bread, chicken wire, all covered with pink knifing putty as it was pre good bog days .

    All out of the cavity behing the wheel well. Gaffer tape and cardboard would have been better. :)

    col
     
  4. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    15,852
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Reminds me of a friend in the early 80's with a negelected 220S Merc that failed the rego inspection coz of rust inside the front wheel arch.

    Some thick lead flashing, hand shaped to cover the whole, splash on some mud, and off to another inspector - it then passed rego! :wtf:
     
  5. cameron

    cameron Member

    Messages:
    116
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Dave l can weld. will borrow some gear from the father in law lets do it properly. the A pillars we can deal with later, maybe spray something down there for now....
     
  6. Necro

    Necro Active Member

    Messages:
    2,626
    Location:
    Victoria
    Hey Cbus, you said don't be tempted to seal it with silicone, what happens...I have a bus in at the moment and it is sealed and the roof was spotless even with a poptop. What goes wrong if you seal it....or were you talking pillars...? Thanks Cam, gotta do it soon, driving me mad driving an unfinished car...:)
     
  7. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    11,830
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Hi Dave .

    The comment was in relation to sealing off a rusty roof with silicone and hoping that less water will mean slower corrosion.
    Thats wishful thinking.
    Any existing corrosion will continue unless treated before sealing off , even as a tempoary measure,

    If we are talking a sound roof then definately seal it .[Although its not essential as many are ok from standard seals]
    the rubber moulding is supposed to do that but often doesnt or perishes and is not replaced early enough .

    I suspect that original fitment care and the environment that the bus has lived in play a big part in the occurence of rust in that area.
    As does replacement[or rather the need thereof] of rubber seals.

    I would recomend additional sealing of some sort. either anchor wax or lanolin squirted along the join so that it creeps under the rubber and give some additional protection
    Or clean the area and apply a fine bead of sealant.

    painters hate silicone as it causes 'fisheye' on futher paint work unless completely cleaned off but its the easiest to remove that remains flexible.
    Sika is better but harder to remove .
    personaly I would only use sika.

    If the area isnt cleaned with metho or wax n grease remover any sealant can lift enough to allow moisture to get in and then is stays wet for longer allowing a false sense of security while promoting rust.
    obviously this is a problem of poor application.

    Acetic curing silicones can cause corrosion on aluminium and unprotected metals.


    in your situation of a roof in good nick and a new or still soft seal a prep with metho and a fine run of sika [or non acetic silicone if you prefer, prob the gutter or bathroom type if they are any different , havent checked] would be a gain in protection with no negative side effects in my opinion.

    If owner didnt want that , some anchor wax would be a good idea . Pay to repeat it whatever intervals you think necessary.

    col
     
    Last edited: Mar 19, 2014

Share This Page