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T3 buzzer of doom

Discussion in 'T3 & T4 Tech Help Clinic' started by D1VWT3, Sep 1, 2019.

  1. D1VWT3

    D1VWT3 Member

    Messages:
    50
    Location:
    Carwoola
    Can anyone suggest a suplier for a oil pump for a 2.1ltr T3 wasserboxer?

    Im needing it this week coz ive got the buzzer of doom happening . I can idle for ages but as soon as rpm gets up to 2000 - 2500 oil light and buzzer sounds

    I changed both oil pressure sensors from an engine i removed 6 months ago so should be fine. Then with no change i changed the oil after adding an oil flush.

    Any help greatly appreciated
     
  2. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,258
    Location:
    Gosford
    Did you check the harness for damage also I would replace sensors with new
     
    grumble likes this.
  3. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    16,386
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Is it the pump actually not working, or is it loss of pressure via leak?

    Or as Phil said, is it an electrical fault, causing the buzzer to come on....?

    Any obvious external leaks, or smoke from the exhaust, caused by oil leaking into the combustion chambers?
     
  4. njg02

    njg02 Member

    Messages:
    55
    Location:
    Rockhampton CQ
    As above guys.
    Buzzer goes off after driving out the drive way.
    I have a new sensor, the one that goes in between the pulleys. Is the a procedure somewhere on how to change it? There is not much room in there. I have the belts out of the way but does the rear heat deflector have to be removed as well?
     
  5. Maccas

    Maccas Member

    Messages:
    86
    Location:
    Gosford
    I've not yet seen a written R&R insitu procedure for this oil pressure switch.

    My experience on this has been:
    1. Ideally R&R the switch in association with R&R of the water pump, or
    2. Trim the heat shield n a circular shape directly opposite the position of the switch, of sufficient size to insert the correct size socket/s.
    While at it, consider replacing the wire connected to it. It's likely gone brittle, cooked by motor heat. A replacement is available from GoWesty.
    Good luck, it's a challenge whatever procedure you choose.
     
    David H likes this.
  6. njg02

    njg02 Member

    Messages:
    55
    Location:
    Rockhampton CQ
    Thanks Maccas. I'll try to remove the heat shield and get a box spanner in there somehow.
     
  7. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    16,386
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    Are you sure don’t need a new water pump, to “kill two birds with one stone”, while you are at it?

    How old is your current pump? :rolleyes:
     
  8. Maccas

    Maccas Member

    Messages:
    86
    Location:
    Gosford
    Helpful links:
    Oil Pressure system explained:
    https://www.gowesty.com/tech-article-details.php?id=42

    Switch:
    https://www.gowesty.com/product/mechanical/4034/oil-pressure-switch-high-gray?v=

    Tips & correct socket for confined space:
    https://www.gowesty.com/product/tools/24286/oil-pressure-switch-socket-tool?v=

    Replacement oil pressure switch harness:
    https://www.gowesty.com/product/electrical-electronic/4032/oil-pressure-switch-harness?v=

    See schematic attached. It's possible that when removing the switch at Position 2, the reducing piece at Position 4 and seal at Position 4a will come with it, so complicating reinstallation (needs a different size socket). Be sure to reinstall the seal or you'll end up with an oil leak.
     

    Attached Files:

    Syncro27, njg02 and David H like this.
  9. njg02

    njg02 Member

    Messages:
    55
    Location:
    Rockhampton CQ
    Not sure about the age of my water pump.
    But, I did change coolant from green to red and now have leaks all over the place. And the buzzer.
     
  10. njg02

    njg02 Member

    Messages:
    55
    Location:
    Rockhampton CQ
    High pressure sensor changed.
    Bought a long 24mm socket and cut it down and moved the heat deflector back a touch for room.
    Quick drive and no more buzzer.
     
    Grantus, Maccas, hairyman and 4 others like this.
  11. Maccas

    Maccas Member

    Messages:
    86
    Location:
    Gosford
    Good result!
    Can you tell me then your procedure and tool if any to reattach the wire connector to the switch, given the very confined working space? Ta.
     
  12. njg02

    njg02 Member

    Messages:
    55
    Location:
    Rockhampton CQ
    Correct. There is not much room at all.
    I used a long screwdriver to find the connector then using one hand and a good light to see which way the connector is orientated, I was able to push it on. No tricks just a couple of goes using you fingers to turn something in a small space.
     
    Barry likes this.
  13. Maccas

    Maccas Member

    Messages:
    86
    Location:
    Gosford
    Clarification please.
    You mean you tackled this from inside the engine bay or from underneath if you removed the heat shield?
     
  14. njg02

    njg02 Member

    Messages:
    55
    Location:
    Rockhampton CQ
    From the top. One small nut underneath the pulleys for the heat shield was removed and the heat shield pulled back for room for the socket and ratchet. It only pulled back an inch or so.
    Followed the cable from the top and moved it with the screwdriver so I could grab it and manipulate the connector onto the sensor. My hands aren't huge but not tiny.
     
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  15. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,198
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    But they are now cut to shreds :eek: :p

    Great result
     
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  16. Maccas

    Maccas Member

    Messages:
    86
    Location:
    Gosford
    Well done indeed!
    Thanks for the added cross fertilisation of ideas, though I'm still confounded, given the paltry space available, your hand (which gets in the way), whilst holding the switch, still managed to:
    01. Align the threads correctly for the new switch install, vitually blindfolded.
    02. Same for cable connector ... fit to top of switch.

    I mentioned previously about trimming the metal shield to access the switch.
    See the attached pic and see the semi-circular trim. In there, see the cable connected to the switch. From there, it's possible to remove the connector and unscrew the old switch using socket and wrench.

    After that, I can't yet say if it can be reinstalled employing the reverse procedure, haven't had to yet. Maybe a combination of parts of what we both said would work. Cheers.
     

    Attached Files:

    njg02 likes this.
  17. njg02

    njg02 Member

    Messages:
    55
    Location:
    Rockhampton CQ
    Agree. The old saying, there is more than one way to skin a cat!
     

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