Installed a new sliding door seal this afternoon and then re-installed the door. Front seems to line up ok and level with fwd panel. Rear is sitting slightly higher than the adjacent panel. I tried to pull it in by adjusting the striker post in a little but then the door wont shut. Can anyone offer any advice on the correct way to adjust the sliding door? Does it take a little while for the new rubbers to “bed in” ?
I usualy alighn doors without rubber first. Gives a reading of if there's any issues with out of square bodywork, sagged lower runner, catches etc. Then fit rubber and give some slack if necessary. Usualy slider rubbers are not as much a problem as front doors For the back alignment tweak with the 4 screws that hold the hinge. The striker is then made to conform to that height and only should affect the amount of " pull in " and ensure closure.
Thanks Col, too late to do step 1, when you say tweak the 4 screws are those the ones at the bottom, or in the middle ? Cheers
4 x 10 mm head bolts hold the rear hinge in place. Viewed from inside. Crack them and lift door to align then retighten. 2 people makes it easier but can be done by one.
The peg that the slider rear catch hangs onto is very adjustable if you haven't changed anything else. It makes the door move in or out at the back of the door - just make sure the door and seal make good contact.
thanks Syncro, I found that when I move the latch bolt in any further the door is really difficult to close because of the new rubber. I will give it another go tonight Cheers
Moving that peg out will allow the front edge of the door to align better as well. As the back of the door comes out - the front edge of the door pushes in. Try moving the peg outward....
Thanks Syncro, unfortunately I went down to my shed before seeing your post. Anyway I messed around with he front adjustment bracket and got the panel lines lined up and the front part of the door is flush when closed. For the rear I messed around for ages and just couldn’t get it right, with the post all the way in (and slightly down) the rear of the door was still sitting out slightly but the panel lines do not line up (the door is sitting down about 4-5mm). I will try moving the post out tomorrow ... I would have thought by moving it out the rear of the door will sit out further though ... anyway I will give it a shot
OK, this is the best I could achieve after a fair bit of messing around last night. I adjusted the bottom roller (front) in to get the front part of the door flush, and up to get the panel lines lined up. I adjusted the rear roller almost fully back and up slightly, then adjusted the “post” almost fully in, and this is the best I could achieve at the rear. Eeek rear two panels still need a bit of work, disregard the 2000 wear sand....it will get better
The front and gaps look great - just the rear of the door sticks out a little. Just check if you have and gaps between the inside and outside of the van via the sliding door seal. You will need to put a thick tarp or blanket over the pop top area to really see light coming through the gaps.
Was the door & body straight, with the door fitting better prior to the respray? I only ask, coz the front top to bottom looks good, as does the rear from the waist down.
Thanks, I will try to check it out, I will have another crack at adjusting the rear over the weekend. Started to get frustrated with it last night and had to walk away..
Always good to know, when to just walk away. T3 things resolve themselves, whilst you are not there, or doing something else, and the next obvious step suddenly dawns on you......
To tell you the truth Grant I didn’t take that much notice, the van was pretty straight before I started so I cant imagine the slider would be any different. Having said that it only seems to be the top/rear section of the door that is giving me a problem so maybe it is slightly off. I’ve had a few gates that were warped by horses leaning on them, I fixed these by taking the gate off and driving the Massey over them ..... maybe.....
Didn’t want to suggest that, but............... there’s a lot of flex at that top rear, especially without the glass....... and as the rest of door is fitting so well. What’s 4mm between friends? If you go that path, and assuming you would remove the door before firing up the Massy, it may be worth taking 5 minutes prior, to remove the new rubber seal, and refit the door without the seal, (as previously suggested), just to be sure the issue is still there, and not “new rubber seal related”.
New car pre delivery check I would chalk the opening seals then close the door,hatch, boot firmly (slam) transferred chalk good, non transferred chalk bad The remedy, a 4x4 block of softwood and old blanket used to jam open the offending panel then a calibrated push after winding down the window. In the 60s/70s bending was the accepted method of gap and panel alignment an operation carried on out of sight of the new owner, and public of course !
