Recall seeing film of "special" tool for adjusting doors used in factory. 4" long bar that latched into door catch and worker heaved on end to adjust height of door to fix gaps.
Some more front end electrical today, wired up the LED light bar to a relay that is connected to the Hi beam. Checked everything was working before final install. The bar is a 51in Stedi ST2K geared for a nice spread not a long spot, it will be mounted above the front windscreen. Once I was happy that everything was working I wrapped the leads so that they could be pulled through A pillar. The earth is quite long because it is running all the way back to the battery, the others just need to go to the relays behind the glove box. Red for light bar, Yellow for day time running lights, and black earth. I thought that this step was going to be really difficult but it ended up being a snap, I just pushed the earth down through the the A-Pillar first and then pulled everything else along with it. I used a bit of electrical tape to secure the wrap to the inner wires just to make sure that it wasn’t pulled of on the way through. I’m going to pass the wires up through a waterproof gland under the luggage rack. From there into a waterproof plug then up through either the front drain hole in the luggage rack, or a grommet and another plug for the light bar itself. The two plugs will enable me to completely remove the luggage rack if ever I need to without having to cut any wires.
Always wanted to do this very thing to mine. By the way, I have a great deal of the interior striped out of mine right now. Let me know of you need pictures of anything
Finally finished with front end electrical (well except for a little tidying up). Last project was to wire up a couple of LED strips for the driver/passenger footwells, they will come on with either door, or with a switch on the dash. I wired up a dimmer control on the drivers side so that I can adjust the brightness. While I had access to everything I ran a decent size wire from the fuse panel down to the back firewall where I will eventually place a house battery. This wire will allow me to run all of the accessories (interior lights, sound system, etc) from the house battery when it is installed later. I also ran the wires for the rear parking sensors and pushed them out through the the firewall grommet and then down to the controller that will be installed behind the left tail light. The “Beeper” is all wired up and sitting just above the LED strip dimmer. With all this done I can concentrate on getting the carpet in, then doors on, then dash back in. I didn’t think that front end electrical was going to take me so long.
Looks good Hutchie. What is your opinion of the 'Carbuilders' products? I am considering options for sound and heat insulation materials for my T2 1971 Bus.
Hi Doob, I’m pretty impressed so far, but I guess the real tests will be when I get it on the road and out in the heat. The sound deadener is similar in thickness to Dynamat, although the sheet size is smaller. The 10mm insulation seems pretty effective at stopping heat coming through into the front foot wells in a T3. Service was pretty good
Thanks Hutchie. Carbuilders have put out a YouTube clip of fitting out a Kombi - that looks good. I read through your 12 page post again this morning. This is one very impressive project! Well done! Back on page 9 you talk of using Loctite 30540 black contact adhesive for seals on the pop top. I assume this worked OK? I am about to re-mount my pop-top, after some repair work. Did you use any type of weather proof sealing compound between the pop-top rubber seal and the steel roof? There was no obvious sealant remnants visible when I removed the pop-top.
I used the Loctite product for glueing the seals onto the pop top because that is what came with them, I tried it on the door seals and it didn’t seem to work that well so I switched to the 3M weatherstrip adhesive and that worked pretty good. The key was to work in small sections (about 30-50cm) put a small bead down on both surfaces, smear it out and then let tack up before putting the pieces together.
Well it took a couple of days, but the carpet is finally in. This job was a lot tougher than I thought it would be, I lost count of how many times I fitted the various sections, trimmed them, then re-installed, only to repeat the process over and over again. Next job is to put the doors back on, but I still have to run the various wires through the rubber boots. Before the doors go on though I need to install the ducting on the drivers side. I gave it a try this afternoon but I just couldn’t get the large piece of ducting to feed up in behind the brake booster. Can anyone offer any advice on how to route the ducting on the drivers side ?, pictures would be very helpful. Please don’t tell me I have to remove the heater box , do one or both of the heater hoses have to go over the top of the large hose ??......thanks in advance.
Bought it from VW Heritage a few years ago Phil, I think it was from their “Premium” range. The fit was pretty good, I probably didn’t help in this regard due to the extra insulation, but I’m happy to have it in.
Not really, as I left the RH side ducting and heater box in place during my make over. Does this very poor quality pic help at all? I vaguely recall leaving the ducting in, coz it would have required the removal of the brake reservoir to get it out???
Thanks Grant, I will give it another go today, unfortunately the image above doesn’t really show what I am after, I really need a good look at the RHS of the heater box where the ducting wraps around and up behind the brake booster....cheers
Phil, just checked the VW Heritage UK site and I’m pretty sure that the carpet I have is from their “OE Spec” line, it is made up of 7 pieces..
It’s in I had to remove all bolts from brake booster, except for bottom right, I could then swing the booster over on the remaining bolt. The gave me just enough room to feed the duct through and then connect it up....phew. On with the show
