Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by Hutchie, Aug 25, 2019.
Low tac tape
Managed to fit new a new roll over and fuel lines to the passenger vapor tank and then re install before I was beaten back by the heat. Phew what a scorcher !
Finally got around to re-installing my driver window today. On my first attempt I managed to scrape a bit of the tint off on one of the inner scrapper clips while installing the scraper. I couldn’t live with the damage so I removed the window and took it back to the shop to get the old tint removed and a new film applied. This is how I successfully re-installed the window without scratching of any tint.
First to find the correct placement for the window lift bracket on the window I installed the bracket on the winder assembly, wound the bracket up to about 3/4 closed position. Next I lay an aluminium straight edge in the bracket and slid it forward until it sat neatly in the forward vertical felt channel, I then marked the rear edge of the bracket on the straight edge and transferred this position to the window.
After the lift bracket was correctly installed on the window I used some ducting tape to tape over the scraper clips so that the window could be installed without scratching off any tint
Once the window was installed and the lift bracket all tightened up I removed the ducting tape and then wound the window all the way down and placed some masking tape on the window opposite the scraper clips, I then used another strip of masking tape to tape on a some aluminium strip (approx 1mm think) over the area as well just to be sure that there was max protection.
I then wound the window back down again and carefully installed the scrapers. Once the scrapers were installed I would the window back up again and removed the masking tape. Voila .... no scratched tint
Next on my rainy day list was to re-assemble my sliding windows. I pulled these apart to get sprayed black and have the glass tinted.
First thing was to re-install the slider lock bar. I used a rubber mallet to knock it into the forward part of the channel and then some clamps to “squeeze” it down into the bottom part of the channel (before I did this I applied a thin bead of silicon into the channel).\\
Next I installed some new felt into the slider lock bar and in the vertical end bar that attaches to the fixed pane. I then applied a small bead of silicon in the bottom of the channel where the fixed pane would sit, then pulled the frame apart far enough to get the bottom rear corner sitting in the channel, I then worked the forward part of the fist pane into the channel. With the bottom part of the pane in I then pulled the top of the frame apart just enough so the top of the pane was sitting in the channel. From here I used some clamps to carefully squeeze everything back into shape.
Now I’m just waiting for a bit for the silicon to cure before the next step
OK one slider down, hopefully with the knowledge gained through this the next one will go together a little easier.
For anyone choosing to follow this path here are a few learning points for assembly.
1. Install the felt in the lower lock plate before you install the fixed pane. It can be done afterwards from the forward end, but it would be easier to do this before installing the fixed pane.
2. The aluminium strip that sits on the bottom of the slider pane installs flush with the end closest to the fixed pane (you can see this above).
3. When I assemble the next slider I will be assembling the fixed pane, main felt channel, and slider pane all at once. It is not too difficult to install the slider pane when the fixed pane and frame are back together, but trying to install the main felt channel is a real challenge when the slider pane is in the way.
All up this wasn’t too bad, just took a bit of patience to make sure that I had all the pieces oriented the correct way. I have discovered that the fully closed detent on the slider lock bar is a bit worn from many years of use and so does not really lock that well. I will have to resort to using a piece of wood or rod to ensure that it remains locked when required.
Next up drivers side ....
Super helpful post, thank for taking the time!
So you're saying ...
Paint assembled ?
In a round about sort of way Col, but hey life would be pretty boring without some challenges.
I forgot to explain that the slider panel went in pretty easy, you just lay the bottom aluminum strip in the channel and then gently push up the top part of the frame and it just pops in. I was trying to assemble the window in reverse order from disassembly and this is where I came unstuck with the main felt channel. It is quite easy to pull the felt channel out during disassembly with the slider pane in place, it is an entirely different proposition trying to push it back in. I got there in the end with a bit of luck and some Vaseline, that is why next time I might try to put it all together before clamping.
I finished the second slider frame this morning, only took about an hour this time. It is so much simpler to install both panes together and then press everything together, process as follows;
1. Install slider locking bar in main frame, then install new felt in channel
2. Install aluminium bar the goes on forward part of fixed pane, then install new felt in channel.
3. Install aluminium bar that goes on bottom of slider pane, make sure that it is flush with rear edge.
4. Install main felt channel.
5. Rest slider pane on bottom channel toward rear of main frame and then slightly pull frame apart to enable slider pane to slip into main felt channel, then push slider all the way forward.
6. Apply small bead of silicon in area where the fixed pane will rest.
7. Slide bottom rear of fixed pane into channel and then push the forward lower edge down until it is resting in channel just aft of slider locking plate.
8. Use clamps to squeeze top and bottom of frame together, reposition clamps as required to apply even pressure.
9. Use another set of clamps to squeeze the ends of the fixed frame together until the split in the rear edge is aligned.
10. Install plastic runners in lower slider aluminium bar.
11. Install slider lock assy
I am thinking about doing the same exercise of painting the sliding windows in my DOKA .... I have a little rust (hopefully) on one of my rear cab window surrounds, so the sliding window needs to be removed anyway... and of course it's a good chance to replace all seals, felt and the old window tint.....
My question is..
Can you please explain the process of painting the window frame? What prep work did you do and what paint did you use ?
Any advice would be appreciated as I haven't started to paint any bits of my DOKA yet.. but I'll give it a go..
Hi John, your Dora windows look very similar to mine so just follow my directions for disassembly/assembly and you should be fine, if you get into any trouble just give me a shout. I had a panel shop re-spray the frames for me so I cant speak of the process, I just asked them to spray the frames with a 2-pack satin black.
I was checking the left and right seals for my sliding windows today and realized that they are both the same size in spite of different stock numbers. They appear to be both for the LHS, based on circumference. I had read somewhere that you can stretch the seal to fit the RHS, is this advisable ?, or should I order a new one?
I thought both sides were the same for T3’s from Aug 1984 onwards.
The sliding door is different on models before Aug 1984.
What part numbers are you looking at?
You are correct Grant except the wrong way round. Up to 1984 both windows are the same size but from 1985 the sliding door window is aprox 25mm shorter
There you go....... thanks Phil!
Had me worried, I had to go down to the shed and check.
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