1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

T4 electrics gremlin

Discussion in 'T3 & T4 Tech Help Clinic' started by vannin, Oct 4, 2012.

  1. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,864
    Location:
    Goulburn
    Yep the mechanical is the main unit for cooling the engine. As far as I am aware the electric one ( its located from memory right down the bottom of the engine just attached to the water pipes) runs only when the engine is off.

    Ill try and dig out my manual tomorrow and confirm its operation.
     
  2. vannin

    vannin Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    Abermain
    I havnt driven my van much lately but I had a look at it today. I disconnected the 2nd battery at the battery end but the guages wouldnt reset so I diconnected the VSR from the alternater (as the red light on it was on ) the red light stayed on even when disconnected from the alternater and the fuse at the 2nd battery was disconnected (so I assume it should have no power)
    I got the gauges to zero then ran it to warm up to check the aux water pump (Ive since read up its only spose to go when the car is turned off) the fans didnt come on when the gauge reached 1/2 I took it for a drive around the block temp stayed at 1/2 but the fans didnt start but the water pump did. It made alot of noise but when I disconnected it then reconnected it seemed to pump with alot less noise.
    Definately somthing strange so Im going to try to get it to the auto electrics.
    Nik
     
  3. t4camper

    t4camper Active Member

    Messages:
    330
    Location:
    rainy Maleny
    There must be another battery Nik.
    No way a capacitor will store enough energy to crank the engine, neither will a solar panel.
    Does your van had a small black box on the slide door step?
    I have a recollection of one being on the step area.
    Places to hide a battery are under either front seat, 2 in the engine bay area by rotating the original from across the van to run front to rear and fit a second battery along side, will not fit if ABS is fitted or mounted under the floor at the back. There is a place at the right rear opposite where the muffler is usually fitted, other place where there may be enough room is between the slide door step recess and the rear trailing arm hanger. Any battery fitted under the floor would likely be an AGM mounted on its side for room.
    I don't think there are any wires visible under the rear floor usually, just a couple of brake pipes along the inside of the left chassis rail.
    Stick your head under and look for wires or a big black shoe box.:wtf:
    Neil
     
  4. vannin

    vannin Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    Abermain
    Thanks Neil! I actually may be getting close. When I drove it on monday it didnt overheat but the low water light came on so I stopped to but 1tl of water in it. Whn I did there was no pressure in the resivour and the fans wernt running. Anyway took it to the mechanics as it has a knocking sound but as soon as he heard the symptoms and listened to it he said I cant here anything over the sound of the water pump bearing. While he was looking at it he said do you have rats at your place because theres rat poo all over the inlet manifold.
    So last night had a good friend come to fix our new aircon in the house as its not working, turns out there has been a rat in it eating the wires. Now Im thinking what have they done to my VW.
    When I was working on it on Sunday I fully disconnected the aux battery instead of just tripping the fuse to the acessories and taking off the feed wire from the alternater and no more stored power in the system.
    No once the mechanical work it done I,ll be searching for signs of the rats eating my wiring.
    Nik
     
  5. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,864
    Location:
    Goulburn
    That's just all rather disgusting Nik but at least you have an avenue to look down.
     
  6. vannin

    vannin Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    Abermain
    I know. It gives me somthing else to try.
    Nik
     
  7. kombivan

    kombivan New Member

    Messages:
    853
    Location:
    Forster
    ok you don't know what acapaciter is well a micro wave oven has one that holds about 11,000 volts thats why we don't play inside them and it stores this power for a while. you obiously have somthing that stores power so be careful finding it wait till its got no juice before you disconnect what you think it might be also, you might look for a wire that passes through or across some metal that may have worn through the wire insulation as this may give a short or power indirectly to something positive that will give problems. Another thing check all earth leads and clean the contacts and reconnect them. Bad earths cause the most problems in the electrics. another thing to do is cut out all the dodgey electrial connectors and solder all your electricial connections. I once had a fuel guage in a volvo truck that didn't work spent hundreds of dollars with an auto electrician to no avail then one day I put new light globes in the fuel guage and it started working. So it could be the simplest thing.
     
  8. kombivan

    kombivan New Member

    Messages:
    853
    Location:
    Forster
    you could also have a relay sticking on abd disconnecting the battery would allow it to switch off causing the reset effect this relay could be on the circut that runs the electric water pump.
     
  9. vannin

    vannin Member

    Messages:
    559
    Location:
    Abermain
    Thanks guys. I went to check on my van today I dropped it off friday arvo so they can start first thing tuesday (monday public holiday) and they havnt even touched it yet.
    When I get it back I will be going right over the wiring to check for any shorts. I cant wait to get to the bottom of it.
    Nik
     
  10. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,864
    Location:
    Goulburn
    That gives you the sh...tz when places do that and they have the hide to charge you top dollar as well!!
     
  11. Alchemy

    Alchemy New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Qld
    I have a 98 T4 and have the same problem with the gauges. I've had the dash looked at by Ottos Instruments and a new speed sensor fitted .
    problem still exists. has anyone found the cause and a solution??
     
  12. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,864
    Location:
    Goulburn
    Broken solder joints where the main connector solders onto the board.

    I’ll try and dig up some photos later today.

    I did a repair job on a dash for a Telstar recently - that was interesting. Wouldnt work when cold, ended up been a small capacitor in the timing circuit for the microcontroller watch dog circuit.
    When electronics get old they cause more problems than old mechanicals.
     
  13. Alchemy

    Alchemy New Member

    Messages:
    2
    Location:
    Qld
    thanks Saabman, Otto's resoldered the board and replaced the servo units. the gauges seem to play up when i first start the van and for 20-30 minutes after.
    I have left the trim off so i have easy access to the plug on the back of the dash. If i Unplug and refitt the connector the gauges reset and after 30 minutes or so everything works well. At times when i turn the van off , i can here the servo units running on with the key removed. would a dodgy capacitor cause this to happen.

    cheers
     
  14. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,864
    Location:
    Goulburn
    I cant recall what else was on the cluster so cant comment on a cap been an issue (its been a few years since I did the work on it and it never played up again and its since been sold )

    The other thing to check is a bad earth under the battery tray.

    Heres a example of what I found in the back of my brothers T4 there was around a dozen bad joints
    IMG_5661.jpg

    and a video of the symptoms

     

Share This Page