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The emancipation of Marvin

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by Trav&Ren, Oct 26, 2009.

  1. Trav&Ren

    Trav&Ren Member

    Messages:
    422
    Location:
    Melbourne
    As I'm still having a problem with some intermittent popping even after a tune-up I thought I'd start having a look at the carbs to see if air is leaking in.

    I was hoping to hold off and do a rebuild during the holidays so for now I left them in.
    Here is what I found though:
    [​IMG]

    Until I can get a rebuild kit I decided to try my hand at making my own gaskets.
    The left ones were my first attempt but they were too think and I couldn't find the right size shims on the weekend but I managed to get some thinner gasket paper. More like the original.
    [​IMG]

    God knows how long these screws have been here. Obviously someone has been at these before as with most of my engine which has been hacked at.
    [​IMG]

    Not surprising the element is broken inside the enrichment box. I'm yet to see anyone come up with a suggested replacement other than finding another original and I know most people say it doesn't do anything but it would be nice to have it working. For now I cleaned it up and put it back on.
    [​IMG]
     
  2. RatCamper

    RatCamper New Member

    Messages:
    121
    Location:
    Berrigan region NSW
    nice work!

    Do you have any more photos of the interior?

    I came to this thread when I saw the photo of it on the flatbed. I got a twinge in the gut of "OMG!" Recognition. Know what I mean? Then I saw teh drivetrain. It was the same as what mine had too. Then there are the interior shots. Would you happen to have any more of them?
    So many small pieces to the puzzle of what mine used to look like. It's unbearable!
     
  3. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,888
    Location:
    Goulburn
    There is a thread by 1500king showing how to rebuild the enrichment box, elements and all. From memory he used suitably sized resistors as the heating element.
    It may have been in his famous 2litre rebuild thread.
     
  4. Trav&Ren

    Trav&Ren Member

    Messages:
    422
    Location:
    Melbourne
    If it's the thread I'm thinking of then 1500king found a spare one and didn't rebuild the original. If there is a rebuilding thread I'd be interested.

    I did find a thread on another forum where someone rebuilds it with various wires, epoxy and silicone but it didn't look reliable.

    Trav
     
  5. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,888
    Location:
    Goulburn
    I was mistaken Trav - In the 2L resurection thread he does just replace it but I have seen another one where he rebuilds one. (Im sure it was on the Kombi Club)
     
  6. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,888
    Location:
    Goulburn
  7. Trav&Ren

    Trav&Ren Member

    Messages:
    422
    Location:
    Melbourne
    In keeping with the theme of having to fix everything on the Kombi which the previous owner broke, a little while ago Dad & I (with the help of my 3yo son) had to rebuild part of the starter motor and solenoid. The main problem was that the poitive bolt on the solenoid had been stripped and when I had to replace my ignition relay I found the long bolts holding the starter were also stripped, which then resulted in the starter looking like this:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Thankfully I found a local auto elec who had some long bolts of various sizes for me to try.
    I managed to track down a new starter cap and while I was at it I replaced the very worn brushes.

    [​IMG]

    Unfortunately the head on the screws were stuffed on the side of the starter and it took some effort to get the solenoid off the housing.
    Just about finished:
    [​IMG]

    Since reinstalling a couple of months ago it has started first time, every time.

    Trav
     
  8. Trav&Ren

    Trav&Ren Member

    Messages:
    422
    Location:
    Melbourne
    As I've been having trouble with my fuel supply Dad and I updated the fuel delivery system.
    First off a new Pierburg electric rotory fuel pump from Inject-a-carb $150.

    [​IMG]

    A cut-off solenoid for mounting in the engine compartment.
    [​IMG]

    A thermometric relay which I purchased with the cut-off solenoid from Fuel Miser LPG Converters for $100 for both.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. Trav&Ren

    Trav&Ren Member

    Messages:
    422
    Location:
    Melbourne
    After a lot of messing aroung I finally found the set-up I was happy with. Unfortunately I couldn't locate metric brass barbs of the right size so I went with this set-up:

    Fuel tank - 7mm out
    Fuel filter - 7mm in/out
    Fuel pump - 7mm in/out
    Cut-off solenioid - 1/4" in/out
    T-piece - 1/4"in, 2 x 3/16" out

    In theory this will reduce the pressure bottle-neck at the inlet of the usual brass t-piece.
    I've taken this extra effort due to the low pressure of the new pump 2-4 PSI from memory.

    [​IMG]

    Whilst pulling the old pump we discovered that my German has had a Brazillian!
    [​IMG]
    We left the old pump there minus the push rod just in case.

    Here is the placement we came up with:
    [​IMG]
    By locating the pump on this brace it keeps it up out of the way of road dirt, water, the heater tubes etc. Also even though the pump can feed up 500mm to the carbs, I wanted to keep the vertical distance as little as possible.

    So far I've been driving to work every day for two weeks and it hasn't skipped a beat. When I turn the key to acc. in the morning it primes for about 2sec and then is ready to go.
    It's also whisper quiet! No rattle rattle.

    Swan Hill Bus Stop here we come!

    Trav
     
  10. saabman

    saabman Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,888
    Location:
    Goulburn
    Good Work trav.

    Good reliable fuel flow certainly helps in keeping things running nicely .
     
  11. Trav&Ren

    Trav&Ren Member

    Messages:
    422
    Location:
    Melbourne
    With Swan Hill Bus Stop approaching I spent some time on some TLC for Marvin.

    First up was a quick spray of the exhaust system, a polish and some new clamps.
    [​IMG]

    The bull bar was looking very tired and proved to be a real pain to clean up. I ended up doing some sanding, angle grinding with a stripping wheel and then finally paint stripper for the stubborn bits around where the original welding splatter made things difficult.
    [​IMG]

    Primed.
    [​IMG]

    Painted with RustKill.
    [​IMG]
     
  12. Trav&Ren

    Trav&Ren Member

    Messages:
    422
    Location:
    Melbourne
    After having a look at my thread I've notices that I didn't show the results of the new fuel pump and bullbar.

    Here is the cut-off solenoid and I have positioned the t-piece in the midway between the carbs. This is where my lines change split from a larger inlet to two smaller outlets.
    [​IMG]

    I decided to have the relay in the engine bay to keep it nice and dry given that my ignition relay keeps getting wet. A problem which we rectified when we fixed up the pump.
    [​IMG]

    I can't tell you how much I love this pump! I know its probably a combination of tuning, pump, lines etc. but since I've replaced it I've had much more consistent power.

    Here is some undercoting of the bullbar mounts:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  13. Trav&Ren

    Trav&Ren Member

    Messages:
    422
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Thanks to having a spare set of kombi rims, we sent a set off to get blasted and powder coated.

    Before...
    [​IMG]

    After...
    [​IMG]

    The hubcap covers were pretty banged up too so I took to them with a Chrome spray.
    Before...
    [​IMG]

    After...
    [​IMG]

    Trav
     
  14. Trav&Ren

    Trav&Ren Member

    Messages:
    422
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Almost three years since we re-sprayed Marvin, I finally got around to painting the front bumper.
    I been used to the grey primer by now but the white definately looked better, especially with the re-sprayed bullbar.
    [​IMG]

    My new tool box.
    [​IMG]

    This is just before the 2012 Bus Stop in Swan Hill and just goes to show how little space you need to remove a kombi engine.
    The front and rear garage doors does help though. Next time we buy a house it definately needs a bigger garage!
    [​IMG]

    And the reason why I had to pull the engine 3 days before the Bus Stop.
    [​IMG]

    In the centre of the picture you can see the bolt which sheared off when I was replacing the oil strainer.
    As a warning to others this bolt is vital and when broken generally need to be replaved by cracking the engine open.
    Thankfully after much some quick thinking and advice Sam2can came up with an alternative solution which did not require a major operation.

    As a side note, the bolt snapped fairly easily due to my new torque wrench being faulty and not my incompetance.

    Trav
     
  15. Trav&Ren

    Trav&Ren Member

    Messages:
    422
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Rebuilding the engine once again.
    [​IMG]

    Just for something different it was the inlet valve seat this time.
    [​IMG]
    This is not entirely unexpected as this head was a secondhand unreconditioned replacement.

    I do have a question for those who are au fait with such things.
    Below are photos from exhaust ports on two different cylindar heads, is the marerial around the valve guide in one of them a carbon build up or is it just a different design?
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Trav
     
  16. Trav&Ren

    Trav&Ren Member

    Messages:
    422
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Rebuilding the engine once again.
    [​IMG]

    Just for something different it was the inlet valve seat this time.
    [​IMG]
    This is not entirely unexpected as this head was a secondhand unreconditioned replacement.

    I do have a question for those who are au fait with such things.
    Below are photos from exhaust ports on two different cylindar heads, is the marerial around the valve guide in one of them a carbon build up or is it just a different design?
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    Trav
     

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