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To soda blast or not to soda blast

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by kombified, Dec 19, 2011.

  1. kombified

    kombified New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Hills District
    I am looking for advice on whether or not its worth the cost and effort to soda blast (or crushed glass which some say is better). I have a 1974 transporter that has only light surface rust spots and one hole. It is going to be given a full respray and I want it to last a while. I have been quoted anything from $1000 to $1400 to have it done. Loooking at many of the resto sites many seem to do it. Worth it or not? Seems it would save a lot of time and dirty effort. Also if anyone has had it done a recommendation would be good.
     
  2. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    12,851
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Crushed glass leaves a fairly coarse profile .workable but coarse. dont like soda as no one seems to clean it off properly and creates serious adhesion problems because of this. think it needs to be acid washed after to alleviate this . many panelbeaters have gone away from this option probably because their systems for prep were not sorted.
    My preference is fine garnet. leaves a clean finish and the fines in the mix makes for a faster/finer finish. getting all blasting medium out of crevices is always an issue.
    We used to reuse garnet up to 5 times with a full recovery/dust extraction system taking the dust out. Adding a new bag of 24 grit when necessary.

    if the body is fairly clean and little or no significant rust I would suggest a 7inch sander /polisher [$80]with stripit discs.[$20 ea]x4? Dont heat panels too much or you may distort them. About 2 hours to strip a roof. Real gentle on side panels.
    Buy a hand sized gravity sandblaster from trade tools for $39. And a 15?kg bag of what they call glass beads but is actually crushed glass. bout$20 .this will do all gutters /rustu bits/seams that the disc wont get at. About 2x 6-8 hr days will do all kombi inside n out
    Vehicle will need to be in a dry environment or etched n primed within days. [pref same day]

    Complete paint removal is not always necessary if paint is sound.

    cheers
    col
     
    Last edited: Dec 19, 2011
  3. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    17,328
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    About to embark on this problem myself. :wtf:

    Col, what about traditional liquid paint stripper? Pro or Cons please.....:rolleyes:
     
  4. lovebus

    lovebus New Member

    Messages:
    58
    Location:
    townsville
    I used paint stripper and it worked fine for me and saved time doing the roof . I painted it on left to dry and used a wire brush to take it off note you don't need to wait for it to dry but it burns like he'll if you get it on your skin. I would go for sand blasting and a 2 pack spry filler and 2 days of sanding but it would be nice to get something to stop the rust inside to steel frame.
     
  5. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,571
    Location:
    Brisbane
  6. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    12,851
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Yeah. Lot of shops like stripper especialy if the panel can be removed from vehicle. potentialy messy otherwise on single panels. Not sure about full resprays as most is damage repair and shops often stick to similar type of work . ie smash repair. so light sand on spot repair panel and a new panel or skin for bigger dings after aligner work.

    stripper would be used on a bonnet for example as its fairly efficient and leaves a newish profile on panel. Makes for a quicker,easier repaint. saves time n money.
    Also easier than sending away and risking damage at a blaster.

    As mentioned before , soda was popular for a while but as far as im aware has had a steep reduction in use except where its usefull on plastics . Its not a problem there as it doesnt tend to damage the surface and all plastics have a system of washing and adhesion promoters etc.

    If a full strip was done with gel stripper i would guess expect interior was gutted.

    I find strip its quick/safe[with a few tricks] less messy. having said that. a pre strip with stripper could have its place. Comes down to how you want to attack the job realy.

    With stripper, follow the advice on cleaning and preping metal afterward

    With disc. dont heat panels too much. once clean and gutters etc blasted i go over metal with a random orbital and 120-180 grit to give a bit of physical key. Probably not necessary if using chromate etch but i like to cover arse a bit .

    Whichever way you go [except for full blast] I find its easier on the brain to clean a panel at a time ,overlaping seams, to a clean finish. provides a bit of encouragement.

    cheers
    col
     
  7. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    12,851
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Probably gel stripper on flat panels from waist line down would be a good method . Less chance of buckling them[ if straight:(?]Final clean after with sander or stripit's

    col
     
  8. max auto

    max auto Member

    Messages:
    265
    Location:
    tweed heads south
    if u are near the gold coast pretech is the guy you need to call
     
  9. Das_Dubber

    Das_Dubber Member

    Messages:
    898
    Location:
    Gold Coast
    I second that from Adrian (re. Glenn from www.preptech.com.au). We get every one of our resto's sandblasted (garnet) by Glenn who only does classic cars and as such has not warped a single panel despite having done around 15 cars for us (inc a lot of kombis).

    A big problem from warpage is when blasters hit the insides of the panels, esp around the support ribs on the long and short sides....as such Glenn avoids these areas (only does the ribs themselves). He normally applies a single pack etch primer to avoid flash rusting which we strip off each panel as we proceed so our panel beating and filler work occurs over treated bare metal. I'll upload some pics later of a karmann ghia that we just started which had a bare metal resto in the past and spray bog was applied over untreated metal, the whole car is basically bubbled and paint is falling off.....so the metal has to be treated properly before any repairs are undertaken whatever method you use (garnet, paint stripper, manual sanding etc).

    Soda is not good for rust and is a pain to clean/prep effectively but everyone is different and prefers different methods.

    cheers
    Al
     
  10. kombified

    kombified New Member

    Messages:
    14
    Location:
    Hills District
    Thanks all for your input.

    Thinking I will go with a combination of stripper, mechanical and small scale blasting (gutters etc). On this can anyone recommend a particular small blasting set up. I presume garnet (silica free version) is the best media to use??
     
  11. max auto

    max auto Member

    Messages:
    265
    Location:
    tweed heads south
    trade tools have a well priced spot sand blaster
     

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