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Tuning H32/34 PDSI Carbs

Discussion in 'Fuel System & Electrics' started by Ignats, Aug 4, 2019.

  1. Ignats

    Ignats Active Member

    Messages:
    110
    Location:
    Merimbula
    Hi Everyone,
    Can someone please help as to adjusting and getting these carbs to run.
    Bit of background info.Type 1 1916 Fresh rebuild fitted with new coil, leads plugs,fuel pump,and temporary 009 electronic dizzy
    Carbs are freshly rebuilt by Volksdoktor for 1916
    First start up yesterday main issues idle is to fast even with initial start point at bees dick off idle stops and constant backfiring from exhaust.
    Cant find much info on these carbs most seem to have been fitted to the type 3 fastbacks etc.
    Any advice would be appreciated.
    Some of you might remember me having similar issues on my first attempt at getting this motor to run before the forced rebuild
     
  2. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    533
    Location:
    Canberra
    Don't know the carbs but
    ...choke idle speed would likely be adjustable via the rods connecting the choke to the throttle lever
     
  3. Ignats

    Ignats Active Member

    Messages:
    110
    Location:
    Merimbula
    Engine warms up choke comes off and still high idle
    Would adjusting the rods have any affect ?
     
  4. Ignats

    Ignats Active Member

    Messages:
    110
    Location:
    Merimbula
    Put this question on hold
    Just went out to the garage to find a nice fresh puddle of oil directly under gearbox to engine seam
    Looks like she comes out again this arvo
    Will let you know the out come.
     
  5. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    533
    Location:
    Canberra
    When you get back to it, check your ignition timing (advanced timing can speed up idle)....also check that it's returning to your initial setting after revving

    So...tappets, timing, then adjust your mixture
     
  6. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    8,604
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Can’t add much other than go back to stone cold engine.....valves, timing and mixture in that sequence as posted above.
    Unlikely that the carbs. are the issue given Andrew’s pedigree....but if in doubt, give him a call....I’m sure he’d talk you through options.....
    All components need to be matched....carbs,dizzy, engine......properly or it’ll never run sweetly.
    Good luck with the oil issue.....
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
  7. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,997
    Location:
    Seven hills
    You may have a leak somewhere sucking air in! from under the carbs,manifold.
     
  8. Ignats

    Ignats Active Member

    Messages:
    110
    Location:
    Merimbula
    Thanks for all the input gents spoke to Andrew today so hopefully things in the carb area will become clearer.
    As for oil leak problem pulled motor on Sunday appears to be coming from main seal but can’t understand why it’s a fresh seal put in by 53 years experienced VW mechanic who will be coming to take a look for himself in a few days but would like to sort out why before he gets here anyone have some ideas as to what can cause the problem.
    Cheers
     
  9. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    533
    Location:
    Canberra
    check if the flywheel surface is pitted where the seals sits
     
  10. Ignats

    Ignats Active Member

    Messages:
    110
    Location:
    Merimbula
    Surface appears to be good
    Measuring how far seal seats and diameters also seem good
    Perhaps the spring around inner of seal collapsed but can’t see anything
    Without going to check seal ie Eldring 70x90x10 flywheel measures about 70mm and inner of seal approximately 69mm and seal seems to be driven home.
     
  11. Wayne murray

    Wayne murray Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    2,997
    Location:
    Seven hills
    Sometimes you do get a bad one or when it was put in slightly crooked (not square) which makes it leak
     
  12. Ignats

    Ignats Active Member

    Messages:
    110
    Location:
    Merimbula
    Had a mate look this arvo 40 odd years a diesel fitter he was of the opinion just change it out and see how we go after tossing around other things.
    One thing I’m getting better at is motor in motor out takes me longer to actually get her high enough than it does to remove the donk
     
    Grantus and tintop like this.
  13. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,988
    Location:
    newcastle
    The luck of s**t parts. Where did the seal come from?
    Cheers
     
  14. Ignats

    Ignats Active Member

    Messages:
    110
    Location:
    Merimbula
    Bit of an update
    The seal seems to be of good quality as mentioned earlier
    So the consensus is flywheel looks ok seal looks ok measurements all seem good.
    So on the advice of a combined 90 odd years of mechanical knowledge the trick here is to remove spring from seal separate at join cut off 1/4 inch or about 6mm refit and everything should be sweet apparently this is not uncommon.
    So that’s what I’ve done this arvo much easier than I thought all seems ok will stick donk back in Saturday and let you know how it went
    Have plenty of beer if it doesn’t go to plan
     
  15. Ignats

    Ignats Active Member

    Messages:
    110
    Location:
    Merimbula
    Well here we are Saturday motor back in fired up ran till hit operating temp and yep got a couple of drips of oil so I would say I’m on the right track will try to get everything else dialed in as far as tuning goes and then worry about oil leak if it’s only a couple of drops after a run I can live with that update soon
    Cheers Ignats
     
    TeeBee and Wayne murray like this.
  16. Ignats

    Ignats Active Member

    Messages:
    110
    Location:
    Merimbula
    Mechanic who built my motor bottom end was not happy with it still leaking so came around this morning and we checked oil pressure,close to 120psi so played around with some different spring lengths in the relief valve and hey presto oil pressure back with in spec and no more oil leak from mainseal.
    Now it’s back to have another crack at the tuning of those carbs.
    Cheers Ignats
     
    Wayne murray, Grantus and Barry like this.
  17. Ignats

    Ignats Active Member

    Messages:
    110
    Location:
    Merimbula
    Ok update time
    So started up last Tuesday and went looking for air leak in system as Wayne mentioned earlier in post ,armed with a can of start yar bastard sprayed all the obvious leak areas got no real results and idle still up and down.
    Started tweaking idle mixture screws again and no change
    Spoke to Andrew and got some instruction on smoothing out idle and To check brake booster for leaks.
    So disconnected brake booster line and plugged wouldn’t start ,reconnect booster still no start ,checked idle mixture screws where back to 1 1/2 turns out my base point where she’s been starting no problem still no start.
    So have checked and rechecked everything valve adjustment,timing,fuel,spark WTF it should go.
    Makes no sense best sign of starting is about four coughs like it was trying to run on one cylinder.
    So help is needed desperately.
    Let the advice begin
    Cheers
     
  18. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    533
    Location:
    Canberra
    yep, right amount of fuel, spark at the right time and compression should start it.

    what's the chances you bumped something taking off the brake booster line? (coil to distributor lead?) that's when it stopped working

    how did you check each of these?

    fuel in carbies? static timing? spark at spark plugs?

    Patrick
     
  19. Ignats

    Ignats Active Member

    Messages:
    110
    Location:
    Merimbula
    can see fuel squirting in when throttle opening but started previously just on auto choke.
    Timing was good when stopped running and was at 7.5 degree or very close
    Checked rotor button position to distributor cap no 1 lead have rotated dizzy with ignition on to check when sparking (marked position of dizzy so could return to exact same position)
    Have placed another lead on cap at no.1 with plug attached good spark and pulled no 2 from engine and checked spark same same.
    So what The is going on.
     
  20. tintop

    tintop Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    533
    Location:
    Canberra
    how about the wires to the idling circuit cut off jets - still connected? do the cut off jets click when you take the wire on and off with the ignition on?
     

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