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type 4 external oil cooler plumbing? Keep cooler or ditch it?

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by deger, Jul 5, 2020.

  1. deger

    deger Active Member

    Messages:
    250
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Hi, Moby is nearing completion and just working on fitting new heat exchangers. When we got Moby, the heater booster was given to us in a box. Bits of aluminium had been siliconed over the tinware holes and over the old heat exchangers. The reason for this was that they had fitted a sandwhich plate to the oil filter return and run the hoses over the passengers side heat exchanger booster inlet (the oval one).

    My question: Is. there a way to fit an external cooler to the type 4 motor without having to butcher the tinware and etc? Alternatively, having brought the motor back to stock with everthing working correctly, do I need the external cooler? Would I be better off just ditching it and keeping Moby stock and in good nick?

    Darren
     
  2. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,869
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    If it is stock it is unlikely you need one.
    That said it is hard to understand what is stock these days and a new head here, a bump in CR there and all of a sudden on a big hill with a heavy load an oil cooler can be a good thing.

    I am guessing they butchered the tin as they were trying to get cabin heat out of the cooler?

    plenty of set ups where the cooler is under the car out of air flow with a thermostat or manual switch controlled fan or a front mounted on in airflow with a thermostat or manual by pass set up
     
    Wayne murray likes this.
  3. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    9,559
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    I run an external oil cooler with thermo switched fan. Fan is set to cut in at 90 deg.C The whole setup provides an extra 1.5 litres of oil to the system.
    Fan is located just in front of the sliding step into the back of the bus.
    I tow a trailer regularly...and over long distances , so this was just a precautionary modification.
    Kombi has never run hotter than 95 C and that was on a long uphill haul, fully loaded and towing.
    Normal driving sees temps at 80 regularly......
    I’ve been very happy with the mod. and would do it again.
    CBB did the install.......never had an issue.;)
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
  4. deger

    deger Active Member

    Messages:
    250
    Location:
    Melbourne
    The biggest issue Barry is that the inlet and outlet for the sandwich plate pass over the oval inlet on the heat exchanger. The only way to make it work is to remove the whole boost system which then requires all of the openings to be sealed up.
     
  5. deger

    deger Active Member

    Messages:
    250
    Location:
    Melbourne
    G'day Mark, agree that I'm not unhappy about the idea of it BUT how do you guys connect it to the motor? If you have any pics of your setup that would be really helpful. On my type 4 motor, I have two choices only it would appear; keep the oil cooler and ditch the heater booster circuit and block up all of the openings OR ditch the cooler and return the motor to stock setup. Is there a way to keep both with this motor?
     
  6. paul77

    paul77 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    995
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I removed the LHS riser pipe, used alloy sheet from drink can to block hole in top of heat exchanger. Heating still works, as does fan forced demist. I decided to leave LHS hose in engine bay and short pipe to clamp it to.
     
    Mordred likes this.
  7. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    9,559
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    I still have the heater booster circuit, stock oil cooler AND the additional thermoswitched setup.
    My back is still stuffed, so it’s a bit hard for me to get under the kombi at the moment but will when I can...
    The only thing that has been taken off to make room for the plumbing, is the near side, lower tinware pan....the one directly roadside of the pushrod tubes.....and despite that No. 3 valves rarely need adjusting....and they are checked/done every 5000.
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
  8. deger

    deger Active Member

    Messages:
    250
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Take care of that back Mark. I would be interested to see where the pick up and return lines run into the motor on yours when you get the chance.
     
    oldman likes this.
  9. 1500king

    1500king Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,563
    Location:
    Adelaide, SA
    Just use a better oil.. fix the thermostat.. if standard with right carbs and timing run it.
     
  10. deger

    deger Active Member

    Messages:
    250
    Location:
    Melbourne
    Agree Andrew. As you might recall, we're totally back to standard albeit with increase to just under 2.2l. When you say use a better oil, what are your recommending? I have been using the mineral penrite oil, HPR 30. Hope that's right?
    Darren
     
  11. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    6,095
    Location:
    newcastle
    @deger . Castrol GTX for over 40 yrs. Penrite good but I stick to what I know has worked for 40 yrs:cool:.
    Cheers
     
  12. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    9,559
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    Tick, tick, tick.......
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
  13. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    12,827
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Popcorn ?
    :D
     
    oldman likes this.
  14. deger

    deger Active Member

    Messages:
    250
    Location:
    Melbourne
    OK, it's going, going, gorn !
     

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