1. This site uses cookies. By continuing to use this site, you are agreeing to our use of cookies. Learn More.

Van won’t start but can push start very easy

Discussion in 'Engine & Transmission' started by Jason Smith, Sep 9, 2018.

  1. Luckyphil

    Luckyphil Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,515
    Location:
    Gosford
    myself & fellow T3 owner Gerry recently had this situation however was not the ignition switch as both of us had recently replaced, also ruled out the battery & starter motor. Culprit was lack of voltage to started due to resistance from old wiring. Both of us installed a relay to the starter now both start first kick. Worth considering for everybody as installing a relay for the starter reduces load on the ignition switch & thus reduces the frequency of ignition switch failure. Just as adding relays to the headlights increases voltage & brightness and also reduces stress on the headlight switch which along with the ignition switch is another known failure point. Hedre is a link to the kit I used, its very easy to install as its all plug & play. The guy sell kits for most VW's including 6 Volt
    https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1066289
     
  2. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,127
    Location:
    newcastle
    Ok.... lay under bus & locate starter motor (one 100mm round thing hiding up beside RHR wheel with a smaller round 50mm thing hanging off it) & have the key in start mode & wallop (technical term:p) the smaller cylinder:eek:. Encourages the solenoid & fault may not happen again for a while.
    Cheers
     
    Syncro27 likes this.
  3. Jason Smith

    Jason Smith Member

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    Wynnum West, Brisbane
    Thanks mate. Gave that a try with fi gets crossed with no luck
     
    David H likes this.
  4. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,790
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Its pretty simple and a process of elimination.
    Has it only just occurred?
    If so check voltage on wire I mentioned and that wires on starter are connected firmly .
    Plus battery connections are good.
    Same applies ti earth straps from batt to body and body to engine and gbox.

    If it has been an intermittent issue and above has been completed then its likely ign switch or worn brushes in motor / contacts in solenoid.

    A good learning practice as not uncommon plus good procedure on other issues.

    Also second Phil's suggestion on reducing loads thru ignition switch.

    Bad connections are the most common cause of faults.
    Cleaning everything up over time pays dividends.
     
  5. David H

    David H Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,127
    Location:
    newcastle
    So the small noise I guess is the fuel pump & that's why it starts with a push.
    Just think that you maybe didn't hit the right spot on the solenoid (try 11 o'clock looking from the rear...top left) & confirm the key was in start position. This is a two person job or one person with a box of matches jammed in to get the key into start pos.
    Cheers
     
  6. deeksy62

    deeksy62 Active Member

    Messages:
    625
    Location:
    Sawtell
    I had something similar a couple of months ago, it was corrosion on the termials at the starter motor end for things, a quick clean and tidy up and it is all good.

    Steve
     
  7. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,364
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Options pretty much covered - but I'm with either the solenoid on starter or the starter itself based on similar experience some moons ago :rolleyes:
     
  8. Jason Smith

    Jason Smith Member

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    Wynnum West, Brisbane
    Thanks again team.
     
  9. Jason Smith

    Jason Smith Member

    Messages:
    73
    Location:
    Wynnum West, Brisbane
    Just to let you all know. The solenoid has crapped itself and I getting done tomorrow. And even though the battery said 12.6v it only had 15%life in it apparently. Still not a cheap fix but at least it didn’t happen on side of the road somewhere.
     
  10. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,790
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Have recently had a new solenoid fail as well so if any continuing issues have it checked.
     
  11. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    18,364
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Had same issue a while back with the battery showing good V but it was dead as far as power to actually crank the engine = new battery.
    If you do a lot of short trips and turn off the engine then start numerous times a day then this isn't good for the battery :( ...... helps to invest in a decent charger such as a cTek and 6 monthly charge to lengthen the life of the battery :rolleyes: (personal experience which seems to work) :cool:
     
  12. Kai

    Kai Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,676
    Location:
    Eastlakes, NSW
    Dont forget there are 3 different types of ignition switches and not all of them are removed in the same way.
     
    Grantus likes this.
  13. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,663
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    I know of the low light and post 74 bay switch differences but is there a third type? Maybe 77-79? I thought the columns stayed the same for later bays.

    Adrian
     
  14. Kai

    Kai Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,676
    Location:
    Eastlakes, NSW
    there are 2 different types for the lowlight.
    311 905 865 A - to chassis 210 2300 000
    111 905 865 F - chassis 211 2000 001 - 214 2164 059
    111 905 865 L - from chassis 214 2164 060

    first two have the wiring attached to the switched part the last doesn't.
     
  15. Mordred

    Mordred Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    2,663
    Location:
    Penna, Hobart
    Thanks Kai, good to know.

    Adrian
     

Share This Page