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what carbs are best

Discussion in 'Performance' started by dakdak, Dec 16, 2015.

  1. dakdak

    dakdak Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    charmhaven
    ive been looking around for a new engine and box,my 1600 and 3 rib just are not cutting it,everywhere i ring say some thing different and their all respected engine builders,some say kadrons others say pict 30,engine size i have in mind 1916.is there a good recipie for this size engine also im thinking 1800 box.i would like to sit on 100 with the it reving its head off. paul
     
  2. oldman

    oldman Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    10,228
    Location:
    Avalon Beach NSW
    My son's '71 lowy sits comfortably on 100 when on the freeway.
    It's a stock standard 16oo, single carb. with matched gearbox - nothing worked.
    You'll end up spending a lot more for a bigger engine than re-building a stock set-up to original spec.
    Remember, these beasts were never meant to be quick off the mark, rather there beauty lies in their torque & low revs. at cruising speeds.
    Stock, in best possible condition, will give you the least problems & the longest life.
    Good luck whichever way you go.
    Cheers,
    Mark
     
    Last edited: Dec 16, 2015
    wenmac and StevieVW like this.
  3. 77/kombi/surfer

    77/kombi/surfer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,978
    Location:
    Budgewoi N.S.W. AUSTRALIA
    your photo shows your bus as a later bay.
    If this is what your planning to put the new engine into id put back in a 2 litre engine with a bit of a bore out to 2.2 with a small cam and a 2 litre gear box. Throw on a
    Pertronix disy and kadron karbies and vintage speed exhaust an your done.
    Stronger engine case and gear box for less over heating issues.
    Youll be up for $2k for the gear box and dissy $400, exhaust $800 ,Kadrons $600 an around $8k+ for the engine plus install.
    Pay once cry once, years of happy driving.
     
    Last edited: Dec 17, 2015
  4. Marlyn

    Marlyn Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    938
    Location:
    Eleebana / Newcastle
    My 2 cents worth .....73 bay 1600. .... I went to Stan Pobjoy total rebuild 1916 with Kadrons 3 rib gearbox .
    Comfort range on highway 95---100kph, fuel consumption = don't care but doesn't sound like its revving its heart out .
    Thinking about a rebuild gearbox from Rod Penrose to change ratios . Because I can not required .
    At the end of the day it's a Kombi , handles like a Kombi ,stops like a Kombi and I love it !
     
  5. dakdak

    dakdak Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    charmhaven
    all good people ,many different trains of thought.from what i can see a taller diff would be better,but to push that diff along a little bit more hp required than 50.ill get the formula yet ,keep your ideas coming
     
  6. bug68m

    bug68m Member

    Messages:
    40
    Location:
    gunnedah nsw
    I'm running a 2lt box with a 1600 single port with twin single throat 34 ict carbs sits on 100kms no worries great on fuel 10lts per 100 out the road. I had a 1600 box when I first got him but it reved way to hard I put 1800 in next but that is no better check a gear ratio chart on the boxes the diff on a 1800 is lower but 4gear is higher so the revs work out the same a 1916 would be a nice amount of power
     
  7. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,605
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Some logical reading on carbs for you.
    http://www.aircooled.net/vw-carburetor-options-selection-101/

    I have had two engines with Dual 40mm Kadrons. I chose them as they are simple with a more set and forget forgiving approach which suits me.
    I like them.
    I have heard webbers can get you more power as they are a dual throat per carb (ie, one throat for each barrell) but they can get fuel blockages and need a bit more tuning (whether or not it is a real issue I don't know).

    Now running a Dual ignition 1916 pobjoy engine mated to a AT (I think) Beetle box and really like the combo.
    Previous was a 1776 that was also very capable. But I wanted a bit more.
     
  8. Bensville

    Bensville Active Member

    Messages:
    331
    Location:
    Central Coast
    I have a 1916 with a 1600 GB and want a 2ltr box. I am also running Kads and as of today, a pertronix distributor. I always look forward to driving it. Dont forget your choice of exhaust is also critical when when increasing the consumption of air and fuel.
     
  9. dakdak

    dakdak Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    charmhaven
    ok so far ive got kadrons for carbs ,the 1916 engine size,pertronix dizzy.gearbox is same ratios as a 6 rib ,is it worth putting in a small cam ive heard something about a eagle 100 ?and what exhaust.getting back to the engine i see 1916 long motors for around $3150 pre built any input there paul
     
  10. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    22,222
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    A decent engine builder with a 1916 will put in a cam, an Engle 100 small but apparently effective.

    Kadrons are good but for a pair I'd expect you'd pay about $1k for them then add a pro to install, sync & tune them.

    End of the day depends on what you want performance wise out of the set up choose a renowned/reputable builder but don't screw them around..
     
  11. Marlyn

    Marlyn Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    938
    Location:
    Eleebana / Newcastle
    Talk to Rod Penrose he will work out your engine capacity + wheel size and use your or ( exchange gearbox casing) and change the ratios to suit your needs .
    I haven't heard any feedback from anyone who has had this done but I did have a good chat to Rod at the nationals and it sounds like a reasonable way to go ...?
    Keen to hear any comments ....
     
  12. 77/kombi/surfer

    77/kombi/surfer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,978
    Location:
    Budgewoi N.S.W. AUSTRALIA
    $3150 that's the price you've seen on a website for the engine long block, plus you need an exchange 1600 engine case to give them for your new engine or add another $250 to the cost = $3400.
    If you put in a cam that means splitting the case, using a Engel 110=$120. Add another $500 or more to the cost to do the job. now your up to $4020.
    You've got to add all the tin ware,(use original tinware of a 1600 engine as most of the repo stuff is crap if you can.) oil filter, spark plugs ,75 amp alternator, Pertronix dissy, flame thrower coil, fuel lines, gasket kit, fuel pump or electric pump?,leads, heater boxes or J pipes if not using heaters, exhaust.
    Then theres fitting and tuning it in which can cost around $1000 ,
    plus you have the box to look at an maybe a starter motor as well.
    theres a quite a few of grand of extras there you have to factor in to the costs.
     
  13. dakdak

    dakdak Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    charmhaven
    thanks kahuna for your input,the object of my question was to find out what other members have in their buses and how they rate their components.as for the reputable builders ive been told by a couple of very well known builders what i need is eveything from a 75hp to a 137hp would suit me.i will try not to screw them around
     
  14. dakdak

    dakdak Member

    Messages:
    120
    Location:
    charmhaven
    thanks kombi surfer,your spot on,i looked at the fine print.its big money and thats why i want the right set up
     
    wirrah likes this.
  15. vassy69SC

    vassy69SC Active Member

    Messages:
    995
    Location:
    Brisbane
    I have 2 buses.
    In one is Dormobile camper ('71) with a 1640cc with 043 heads, mild cam, dual 36 Dellortos and a CSP python exhaust
    It is still running a stock 1600 gearbox and this suits the engine and the weight of the bus well. Will sit on an actual 110km/h. Revving hard but happy.
    The other is a single cab with a 2165cc that has round port 044 heads, Engle 110 cam, dual 45 Dellortos. It is running an 1800 box with a 1600 4th gear in it.
    This gives it fairly long legs in 4th and suits the weight of the car and engine.
     
  16. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,605
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Regarding exhaust. I now run a vintage speed.
    I don't have a lowered bus so I opted for the normal exhaust but I wished I went hide away now as my daughter just got a 2nd degree burn on her leg from it. I feel terrible.
    But love the exhaust otherwise.
     
  17. damo99

    damo99 New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    melbourne
    no ofence but thats bad advice about boring a 2 litre out to 2.2 for a kombi
    a small stroker maybe(74/76mm or 78) not boring unless using nikies(about $2000+ just for barrels) to get a good head seal and dissapate heat.
    the cast iron cylinders at 100mm+ are renowned for blow by and even worse in a kombi thats pulling all its weight .
    the bolt spacing in the type 4 heads is the problem with big bores as they arn't square like the type 1 .
    for a kombi the most reliable would be a 78mm stroker with h beams with 22mm pins to run 94 type 1 pistons(there lighter)
    or even stock type 4 rods to suit the 78 with 24mm pins and 94mm type 4 pistons .
    not only will you get a much more reliable motor but a heap more tourqe to boot witch is what is
    needed in a kombi
     
  18. 77/kombi/surfer

    77/kombi/surfer Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,978
    Location:
    Budgewoi N.S.W. AUSTRALIA
    Way to go Damo99,
    Glad you've put your information on here for dakdak.
    Im no way educated in engine specs internals as what you have explained.
    It was more a general idea on an engine up grade to get more long term performance and reliability without spending too much money using the 2 litre engine an gear box setup instead of a 1800 box an 1916 engine. I should of been more specific and noted that.
    cheers chuck
     
  19. damo99

    damo99 New Member

    Messages:
    22
    Location:
    melbourne
    i agree with the 2 litre over the 1916.
    i am not a fan of type 1 engines in baywindow kombis even using a stock 2 litre and box would be a better idea than building a 1916 . i have seen more than a few 2litre motors do over 200,000 if treated right you will never get that from a 1916 (not even close).
    it might cost a little more to do the 2 litre up front but long term you will be miles ahead .
    the main thing you have to keep an eye on in a type 4 in a bay is cylinder head temp but that also goes to the type 1 as well probobly more so.(all aircooled cars should have a ACURATE cylinder head temp gauge)(not vdo)
    the 2 litre has loads of tourqe and thats whats needed in a baywindow bus
     
  20. Barry

    Barry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    5,708
    Location:
    Abbotsford NSW
    I will disagree with that
    Jeff on AVD has an L bug that has just clicked 666,000kms.
    Yes - not a bay - but an L bug that hauls a builders trailer that has several 100kg of stuff.
    Would easily equal a bay weight but worse as it is a dead load that needs to be dragged

    agreed - the type 4 is a great motor for a kombi
     

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