Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by BrianK, Feb 6, 2013.
One I made a couple of months ago
Took both rear hubs off and checked, cleaned and readjusted Brakes
Forest oak Handle! very nice one of my favourite timbers. Or it's from the same family at least.
We have it growing on the ranges on one of our places. I think it’s allocasuarina, we call it wooly butt. It’s hard on saw blades, we use it for fence posts , some have been in the ground for over 100years and still going.
The blade is about 59 Rockwell and holds its edge very well, the next one will be stainless. https://www.dropbox.com/s/mj97nxoiidlx1gl/Photo 12-1-20, 6 51 48 pm (1).jpg?dl=0
You seen to many pictures of what they did to Igor
I feel a little embarrassed to post this but not all things kombis are gold lined. I've owned my single cab kombi for 18 year know and the way the treasure chest door opened up had remained the same(like first photo) I've put up with this for so long and getting the hook shape lock latch in the back of the head really does hurt. Buying the ute from a VW spare parts dealer you would think the car was correct. I have heard that there was two lengths of stays and always thought it was for the earlier model kombis. There isn't many single cabs around to see the difference and if you do see one finding the owner to ask to look at their treasure chest was even harder to find. at boris picnic day last year I was lucky that a 69 single cab owner asked me a few questions about utes and lucky for me I was able to open the treasure chest door,to see that it opened more them mine.
Again I thought I had looked at websites before looking for the stay but not until I seen one on a car and I then also had found several on Australian websites. https://www.mickmotors.com.au/produ...71-treasure-chest-sc-pick-up-52-79-14482.aspx
The description was right but it doesn't stat length,took a chance and brought one.
The length difference is 30mm in the stay between the top photo old stay and the bottom with the new stay and what a big difference it did make in how much more it opened.
Slightly less of a chunk taken out of your head now Wayne when accessing the stuff stashed in there.
Much more user friendly.
Lost count how many times I had done that,would say to my self won't do that again.
Until next time you forget and seem to stand up as you exit the cargo area. Bites you every time.
Yes it's going to be a lot better to use know.
Are they genuine VW parts, or aftermarket ones, made 30mm longer?
It would be a aftermarket item made like an original part length.
Cheers, going to try and find a pair for the T3.
The VW part numbers, for your SC 211 827 401, and the T3 245 827 401, appear to be identical parts...... so the longer ones should also fit the T3.
That's interesting, what is the length of your stay on your treasure chest stay? No you don't have to measure it tonight! The old one I had which was a engine lid stay was 230mm from bolt center to the area that latches it in the open position,new one is 260mm from same measure points.
They have them listed as 250mm and 280mm respective on some websites.
@Grantus as you are well aware,make sure the length is right as you look at the two options I added below,part number has an A added but description both relate to side compartment but the lengths are different
245-827-401/A / 245827401A - Side Compartment Support ...
www.justkampers.com.au › 245-827-401-a-side-compart...
245-827-401/A / 245827401A - Side Compartment Support Spring for All VW T2 Pick-Up Models: This Original Equipment quality, side compartment support ...
245-827-401 / 245827401 - Engine Lid/Side Compartment ...
www.justkampers.com.au › 245-827-401-engine-lid-side-...
245-827-401 / 245827401 - Engine Lid/Side Compartment Support Spring for VW T2 Pick-up 1963–1971: This is the engine lid/side compartment support spring ...
Of course, what I’d REALLY like is some gas struts, that open to the same position as your second pic...
I found ones at VW Classic in Germany, for the engine lid, but the side flaps are way heavier, so I assumed they wouldn’t be suitable.
I reckon one of these bay or splitty gas strut kits from Geek Shack would work with possibly minor adjustments.
Took the '75 out for some ice cream
With the Help of Scott we changed the canvas skirt on my air cooled today. Skirt came from a donor van and is in great condition and fits like a glove. Both vans are Camperize conversions so was pretty sure would fit.
Little Red came out of the garage for a drive today - exactly 3 months since she has been out - I know this because being on historic rego, you have to write on the sheet when you drive it.
Fixed the fuel gauge ! ......and worked out an easy way to re-set the dash cluster.
With the voltage stabiliser identified as the culprit and a replacement ordered, I thought I’d pull the old one apart to see how it works...nothing to lose !!! .un-crimped the case and took a look inside......very simple but quite dusty, so blew it down. Everything seemed to be connected, so I reassembled it. The adjustment screw is a pita to turn......tiny, weeny little stud to rotate, so I thought I’d replace it with a heavier gauge, posi-drive screw......has to be easier to adjust, I thought. So, ignition on and success ! needle back up near full (tank filled yesterday, not a full k done since..). A couple of minor adjustments with a screwdriver and everything is reading as it should......happy !
Next, resettling the dash cluster.Anyone who has done this, knows what a bugger of a job it can be.
Having done this numerous times and taken a long and frustrating time to do it each time, I thought I’d try a different approach........using a couple of magnet fragments.
The two hardest screw/clips to seat are the two adjacent to the vent/heater levers.......the other two are a doddle.
I snapped a couple of rare earth magnets and placed two small fragments , one at the top and one at the bottom of the cutout to hold the spring clips in position......all I had to do was adjust their placement so that the cluster screws sot directly over the holes in the clips......screws in and worked perfectly !
No more contortionist acts, or exposing the neighbourhood to the rantings of a frustrated wannabe mechanic.....
Can’t believe how simple this fix is.......it literally takes 5 minutes to reset the cluster......no twisted legs or back and no dislocated elbows, wrists or fingers trying to hold clips and seat screws.......
......AND the fuel gauge is back to normal...
When I got the T3 SC the RHS stay wasn't there ..... cunning seller only opened on the LHS and I didn't check.
I was speaking to old_dubber and he said the engine lid stay from a late 60's was what some used = he had one and I fitted it and it worked
Possibly something to look into and as for length as they're @ JKA possibly Kai can answer an enquiry from you ..... as for the blocks am not sure about them
Different part numbers in Wayne's post (the add of the "A") I expect is because one is OEM and the other is Wolfsburg West.
Separate names with a comma.