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What did you do to your Non-Kombi VW or other car today?

Discussion in 'Off Topic' started by melissa, Jun 19, 2016.

  1. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,569
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Terry's Daihatsu. Think hi jet truck ?
    Did wonder how a fwd would go in similar application.
    ie, dropped in a Kombi :D

    Might have to check how the Prius is configured ;)
     
  2. wombatventures

    wombatventures Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,577
    Location:
    Peterborough SA
    Yep. Hijet. Shares engine with charade... and they had a turbo...;)
     
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  3. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,771
    Location:
    Mannum South Australia
    Much like the Australian Toyota Celica and it's Japanese market running mate, the block is about all they have in common. The turbo Charade has special pistons, oil squirt jets to cool under the piston crown and an extremely well balanced rotating mass. Not sure if the con rods were the same or not, maybe they were only changed in the performance upgrades. The thing the Japanese version of the Celica 18R and the turbo Charade had in common, they revved like there was no tomorrow, the modified versions often saw 12,000rpm or more during full competition use.

    It would require a special electric motor and a very high voltage battery pack to match those revs, something out of a Formula E car possibly :lol:
    We have a member of the SA Electric Vehicle Association converting one of those little Japanese sports cars, might be a Cappuccino that he uses as a race car, to a electric drive using a Tesla rear end drive. He decided to do the conversion after returning from a race meet and driving his wife's electric vehicle to the shops for milk. Still being in racer mode he gave it some stick and was so impressed with the performance he decided the upgrade to EV in his race car was a no brainer. Can't remember what sort of EV his wife had, but it wasn't a Tesla :lol:

    T1 Terry

    T1 Terry
     
  4. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,569
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Mmmmm
    Might be some searching for a grey import charade.:rolleyes:

    Wombat.
    NZ tended to get a lot of interesting versions.
    Can run it past my nephew who has contacts in such if necessary
    :D
     
  5. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,771
    Location:
    Mannum South Australia
    I seriously thought about that mod, gearbox, fuel tank out so the motor could fit east/west, then I realised the engine would need to be in front of the drive shafts, so sort of where the folding back seat would be in a camper but where the gas tank is in our Kombi because we only use the back as a bed or to carry stuff.

    I did think about using the gen 3 or Camry transmission as it has an aftermarket inverter set up that plugs in to turn it into an electric drive with no petrol motor attached. That would leave the normal engine bay available as a boot or carry spot for a gen set for the longer trips if a power point or charging station wasn't available, like if you went bus for a while.

    The killer catch for us was, we want to tow the Kombi behind one of our motorhomes and a Prius can't be flat towed. Neither can a Kombi in standard trim, but with an electric motor in place of the petrol motor, it could be left in 4th gear and flat towed so the oil still splash fed all the bits in the gearbox. An electric motor doesn't have any issues with free spinning for extended periods so that isn't an issue

    T1 Terry
     
  6. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,569
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    @wombatventures
    What year is truck/ engine code ?
     
  7. wombatventures

    wombatventures Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,577
    Location:
    Peterborough SA
    85 with a CB41 Col.
    The Turbo Charade was CB60 and 61 with carb or CB70 an CB80 with efi and intercooler. Rare as hens teeth.
    I am considering a 5 speed from the next model. Rumour has it it fits fairly easily.
     
    cbus likes this.
  8. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,771
    Location:
    Mannum South Australia
    Weight would be the big issue, a small capacity turbo petrol engine requires a very quick rev increase to get the exhaust gasses up to speed to spin the turbo up to the point it starts to pump positive pressure into the intake manifold.
    This is all stuff I worked on back in the late '80's and early '90's, boost recirculation valves to allow the turbo to spin up unloaded yet keep the air flow through the intake metering correct to stop that over fuel bog down the "doof" valves caused. In the street drag cars we added a nitrous oxide squirt to get the exhaust gas speed/pressure up enough to develop the required boost pressure at low revs .... then we went into ethanol injection to allow higher boost pressures and methanol spray into the cross over between the turbo and intake to eliminate the need for an intercooler .....
    After that building motors that could handle the extreme pressures and finding transmissions that could hold the torque as well as not twist the box itself and lock up the valve body and the whole exercise moved into mega $$ stuff that one engine or transmission fail on a 1/4 mile pass eat 12 mths of business profits and mths of work to overcome the problem so it didn't reoccur.
    Stuff like tearing the front right hand corner out of a 4.1ltr cast iron 6 cyl Ford block because of the head trying to separate from the block while the torque applied from the transmission bellhousing is twisting the block till the crankshaft flexes enough for the con rods to hit the cam snapping it into pieces and the valves hitting the pistons and destroying the head .......

    T1 Terry
     
    Barry likes this.
  9. Buggergary

    Buggergary Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    90
    Location:
    Smithton Tasmania
    Had to do some work on my bug over the last couple of days off :( I hadn't used it since march and had it sitting outside while i had the kombi in the carport pulled apart. When I got the kombi running so I could move it back into the shed i moved the bug back to the carport before the winter weather really hit but it must have been a bit too late.
    When i moved it back it cut out on me and wasn't running too flash so I just pushed it into place after it stalled for the second or third time and didn't think anything of it.

    Anyway 4 months later I tried to start it to move it out of the carport for a few hours but that turned into several hours trying to start a very reliable bug that has rarely let me down. After several attempted starts with a small amount of petrol poured down the carbs with no success I decided to check for fuel flow out of the fuel pump. So i disconnected the outlet hose and turned it over to pump some fuel into a tin. :( Nothing ! Ok so i moved to the front of the bug and removed the fuel filter and found it full of a white greasy rusty gunky stuff that i have never seen before.
    So i stopped there and decided to remove the tank and flush it out and replace all the fuel lines as i went as it's been a few years since they had been touched.
    There was a bit of surface rust in the tank so I brought some evaporust and soaked it in the tank for a few hours.I then flushed it out with some fresh fuel and refitted the tank and new hoses and filter.
    DSC03494 (Custom).jpeg DSC03492 (Custom).jpeg
    I then moved back to the engine bay and removed the fuel pump and dismantled it to find the white gunky stuff all through the pump as well and cleaned it all out.
    DSC03487 (Custom).jpeg
    next it was on to the carbies and there it was again all through both the kadrons so it was a case of remove ,clean out ,reassemble and reinstall again o_O
    bug carb1 (Small).jpg bug carb (Small).jpg
    bug carb2 (Small) (Small).jpg
    I filled the float bowls and primed the accelerator pumps before i fitted both carbs as well as sucking some fuel from the tank through the fuel pump with my vacuum brake bleeder so everything was primed and ready to go then hit the key and it fired up first go and after several trips over the last few days it hasn't missed a beat.

    After a bit if thinking I reckon the problem was a combination of things that caused the problem. In the 20 years since i restored the bug it has never had a problem with water getting into the tank and it has sat at work for 12 hours at a time and most of it's time it has spent out side as I have only had the carport for about 4 years. Our last run in it was to the berry patch back in march then it sat out side with a very low amount of fuel in the tank ( I usually always keep my vehicles full all the time )
    So I reckon condensation from the almost empty tank plus the dodgy fuels that we have today combined to cause the mess in the tank starting the rust and blocking up the fuel filter.
    The time I moved it into the carport when it stalled several times must have filed the fuel filter, fuel pump and the carbies with the watery mix then it al festered into a corrosive mess by the time i tried to start it again several months later :mad:

    That's a job I don't want to do again for a while I think i'll have to make sure it gets a good run more often to keep things fresh and don't leave it with a low level in the tank out in the weather for too long.
     
  10. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    18,838
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    After 13 years, the keys to the SAAB, were wearing out. Scrapes, scratches and finally, buttons falling off.

    F6E7A09E-1396-41B5-BC55-FFCD9B0E305E.jpeg

    On EBay, from a Locksmith company in Queensland, I bought a new pair of housings, for just $22.70 delivered!

    3D60E125-80BC-4947-9CA6-36C496F47EBB.jpeg

    Split the casings, swap over the electronics, fit new battery, re program to the car, and bingo! New keys! :)

    I can only imagine what the SAAB parts dealer would charge for the same. :eek:
     
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  11. wombatventures

    wombatventures Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,577
    Location:
    Peterborough SA
    Decided to take Dinky to Morgan to plan out the Dubs by the River Observation Run. Got just over half way there and he decided to play up! Normal for me!:rolleyes:
    After a heap of diagnosing, head scratching, prodding and poking....
    Distributor? Maybe...
    Well there you go...
    First time I've had to set points in nearly 20 years! o_O
    And first time I've ever had to use a mirror to do it ever!:eek:
    That was after dismantling half the interior to get near the bloody thing! Even a Kombi is easier to get at.
    Nice weekend to relax and get away from the usual weekend working and car stuff at home!:rolleyes::oops:o_O

    Now to order a new distributor cap, this one is not real healthy, and a spare set of points and condenser to go with the fan belt and (bugger me! ) radiator hoses!:confused:
     
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  12. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,569
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Give Dinky a heads up that you have Sims metal on speed dial for next time he plays up.
     
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  13. wombatventures

    wombatventures Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,577
    Location:
    Peterborough SA
    I've had so many offers I could just handball him and make some cash! But no, I'll show the love and give his little motor some extra tlc...
    At least until I've got the new wheels fitted!;)
     
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  14. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,771
    Location:
    Mannum South Australia
    The trick is to take the distributor out, do the job properly including cleaning up the base plate and points base plate to ensure they make a really good electrical path, the lube the cam, spray some lube into the advance weights and make sure they are working, then put the dissy back in .... then call the RAA because you can't get it to start any more :lol:
    The next you do the job you will remember to mark the position the rotor button faced when the distributor was in place and mental picture of where it pointed when it came out because it does turn as it is seated (the gear teeth engaging). A good trick to master when doing the point of a VW on the side of the road as well, they are just too hot to handle when still connected to the motor.

    T1 Terry
     
  15. wombatventures

    wombatventures Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,577
    Location:
    Peterborough SA
    To get to a hijet jumbo distributor first you tip both seats forward, remove the storage tray covers and centre support. Remove the cover plate you find under the matting and spend the next 20 minutes working back and forth between underneath and in through the passenger side door getting at the bloody distributor. Bugger pulling it out of the drive unless the whole engine was out, you'd never line it up right getting it back in.
    Points on a Type 3 are a piece of piss compared to this, even easier when they've been hoiked over your shoulder and replaced with an electronic pickup.;)
    Once I have all the new bits the Diahatsu will get the tlc it deserves.
     
  16. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    22,284
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Don't think I'll ask about getting to the spark plugs then Terry :confused:
     
  17. wombatventures

    wombatventures Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,577
    Location:
    Peterborough SA
    I'll figure that one out when I do the rest Bert. Since I take the carbs off to do the ones in the Notch I figure these won't be much worse. ;)
    Can't wait to get back to working on my old HZ One Tonner. At least you can jump in the bay and get at everything!;):cool:
     
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  18. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,771
    Location:
    Mannum South Australia
    Magnetic spark plug socket and definitely when the engine has cooled down :lol: As long as the power supply to the coil is good and a good job was done when installing the points, the plugs only need to come out every 10,000km or so .... well, Kombi's could be closer to 20,000km but ......... yeah, I know, mechanics are really slack when it comes to servicing their own vehicles cause they can back track each noise or performance problem and manage to put off actually working on their vehicles until absolutely necessary :rolleyes:

    T1 Terry
     
  19. melissa

    melissa Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,667
    Location:
    Newcastle NSW
    Saw some wheels listed on facebook marketplace that were a bit of a bargain and when I went to pick them up, it was a wreckers - I asked did he have any beetles and he said the one that the wheels had come from had already gone but he had another one down the back if I wanted to have a look - with so many new beetles in our family at this time, I am sure I could find something that I could use - anyway, he has a silver 2000 manual sitting there - to be honest, the paint was good, only had a smashed passenger window but as soon as I looked inside I said I'll take the glovebox lid, the blinker cover, that trim piece off the centre armrest, the passenger door lining panel was already removed and sitting on the back seat - unfortunately it didn't have the original stereo or I would I have grabbed that in a flash!! I also grabbed the handbook - my mum needs one of those. Turns out its not easy just to remove the glovebox lid so I got the whole thing - all for the bargain of $100 for the bits and pieces and $250 for the wheels - the tyres have great tread. Will probably paint the rims black to get the same effect as the attached photo. I would still really like those big VW rims but this was a great price.


    vert after.jpg


    glovebox.jpg

    door card.jpg


    wheels 1.jpg wheels 2.jpg
     
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  20. melissa

    melissa Administrator Staff Member

    Messages:
    15,667
    Location:
    Newcastle NSW
    I should have said - the glovebox lock/handle is usually broken in most of these cars by now and you cant replace just it.
     
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