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What do I need to change an engine?

Discussion in 'Splitty Tech Clinic' started by 68BUS, Jul 4, 2013.

  1. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,362
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    Poms have the habit of wanting to be supervisors:p

    You are allocated the underneath jobs and removing bell housing bolts
     
  2. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,362
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    If its on a bay it must be an improvement :p
     
  3. phatratpat

    phatratpat New Member

    Messages:
    1,863
    sounds like good advise to me !!
     
  4. T1 Terry

    T1 Terry Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,665
    Location:
    Mannum South Australia
    Just a bit more to add to the good advice you have been given so far.
    Splits and early 1600 bays were much easier to get the engine in and out because all the tin ware comes out. It's worth taking the rear bumper off as well, then it's an easy slide in and out. Put the gearbox in either 1st or rev before you start, helps when refitting the new eng so you can turn the eng over a bit to get the splines to line up between the gearbox input shaft and the clutch centre. Disconnect the battery negative cable first and the negative goes back on last, saves arcing the spanner between the positive terminal and any metal parts.
    The 2 nuts behind the fan housing should be 17mm, but they could be any size from 14mm to 19mm, depends how pedantic the last person who fitted the eng was for fitting the correct parts.
    A set of metric combination ring open ed spanners, good phillips and flat blade screw drivers including a flat blade driver you can put a spanner on to turn it so you can get the hard to get ones out. a set of metric allen keys.
    Don't forget to thread the accelerator cable through the fan housing both when removing one engine and fitting the other one, a real shit to do after the engine is in and can be a right pain trying to stop the eng falling off the trolley jack while you dislodge the cable when trying to get the engine out.
    If the heaters are connected get the heater cables undone near the beginning of the job, you don't want to be doing that job while the engine is balancing on the jack either

    T1 Terry
     
  5. splitbus

    splitbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,330
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Vice grips for pinching the fuel line when removing, new fuel line and filter, and new engine to body seal (4 pieces )
     
  6. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,605
    Location:
    Brisbane
    By the way - Thanks very much folks.
    The engine is out with minimal swearing. Mainly related to the hidden bolt above the engine.
    It has become a bigger job though as it started with an engine switch,
    became a new fuel tank, then a new wiring loom, then new set of custom gauges and now it is a full bare metal resto.....again!

    I am not touching the underside or fixed running gear (as it is already done less a service) but none the less the bus it stripped out and getting blasted soon.
    I am currently working through doing the panel beating and rust work (extremely minimal - just cleaning up the welds of previous resto really) while I can see them, so hopefully blasting will result in a quick tidy up of bits I missed before cleaning, then getting back into paint.
     
  7. paul77

    paul77 Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,021
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Hey Brad, what are your plans for paint and interior. Are we going to see a thread in the resto corner?
     
  8. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,605
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Nope. Could not be bothered:lol:

    Nah, I will get there soon enough.
    I have taken some photos as I go.
    I have pulled the motor and stripped the interior and started to strip back to bare metal but then remembered how long it takes.
    Hence the decision to pay someone to strip some of it (all the nooks and crannies anyway until I hit about the $1200 mark then I will do the rest myself.

    I am currently torn. I will probably either go the bus Sea Blue #1 or the Beetle Sea Blue #2 (both from 1966).
    Sea Blue us a deluxe colour though and I was going to go solid colour rather than white on top.
    That may change to being a charcoal (or similar) band through from underside of roof to swageline so I get the "traditional" splitty nose look.
    The basis was my bus as a rat was pretty uninteresting. So why not paint.
    I am not going file finish but will be using a bit of filler but doing it properly. The filler in the bus now was starting to crack and was over a little bit of surface rust.
    Some areas had filler over pin holes in the steel. Any weak metal is getting weld filler until it hits strong stuff. So hopefully it will last a while.

    I would love to be back on the road for Xmas Camping but will see. I am doing one weekend day and 1 days holiday a week trying to get there.
    Mechanicals will be a bit different and will include a raised engine hatch. So it will look a bit different and certainly not original but that does not bother me a great deal.
     
  9. splitbus

    splitbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,330
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Sounds good Brad, but what is a raised engine hatch ?
     
  10. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,605
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Unfortunately I am having issues regarding the clearance above my sidedraft webber. It is taller that the stock fanhousing by about 60mm. Which means I need to install a engine lid / hatch that has a bit of extra clearance on it.
    So I have to work out exactly how high I need to take it as I want to balance not making it loo odd with being able to fit it in without a huge heat source of the turbo sitting directly below the tin.
    A bit of maths and I should keep it low enough to satisfy everything.
    Then once it is in I was going to plane some ply down to the correct angle around it and put some marine carpet over it so it is not too obvious.
    Similar to Gazman's hatch but higher.

    Would prefer not to cut the bus but I have to to do it this way as I did not want to replumb the engine to have the turbo sitting outside the bus.
     
  11. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,605
    Location:
    Brisbane
    Basically, I am going from stock with about 40mm clearance above fan housing.
    [​IMG]

    To having about 40mm above the parcel shelf taken up with the wastegate and access to the jets.
    I don;t mind taking the hatch out to work on the bus, but just trying to balance a few things.
    [​IMG]
     

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