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WHEEL STUD LENGTH

Discussion in 'Steering, brakes & Suspension' started by rstucke, Apr 21, 2019.

  1. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,147
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    When I bought my new Empi jelly bean rims I was in a hurry to fit tyres and get them on Blitz.
    They looked great and off we went.
    A few weeks ago I added mud flaps ( the ones I had weren't good enough)
    When I took the wheels off I got a little sick in the stomach.
    They came off to quick, so I counted the turns on (all the way to tight)
    7 turns (f#$@*) time for longer wheel studs before someone dies.
    No mention from where I bought the rims and I feel like giving myself an upper cut for not picking it up earlier.
    I tested the old steelies with the original wheel nuts
    14 turns (7 turns would be like your original wheel nuts only going on half way!)

    Anyone who has alloy rims with taper seat wheel nuts needs an extra 10mm of wheel studs (for a late bay window kombi)
    Rear original 40mm stud (needs to be 50mm)
    Front original 50mm stud (needs to be 60mm)

    The fronts won't fit the backs because the serrations (at the press fit end) are longer because of the disc

    So removed the hubs, knocked out the old studs with a hammer against an anvil and pulled the new studs in with an old wheel nut and a spacer.

    Here's with the original stud
    IMG_0459.jpg
    here's after the longer stud
    IMG_0466.jpg
    This shows one turn on (top)
    15 turns on (bottom)
    IMG_0468.jpg
    This is how long the new studs look on the front (no disc on)

    IMG_0462.jpg
    I don't feel sick anymore (and only have a small bruise on my cheek)


     
  2. StevieVW

    StevieVW Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    3,474
    Location:
    Somerset, Tasmania
    I put longer studs from brikwerks on the microbus, bit of messing about pressing in and out the studs, but like you say, helps me sleep better while driving......

    3/4 of stud diameter of thread engagement was an old rule of thumb from an old wheel guy I talked to. Not a lot of margin for loosely goosed tho
     
    Mr Beckstar likes this.
  3. Grantus

    Grantus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    16,098
    Location:
    Southern ACT
    From what I’ve read, that method is strongly advised against...... o_O

    2nd Paragraph starting with “IMPORTANT”, and then Point 8, in the link:

    https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/longer-rear-wheel-studs/
     
    Mr Beckstar likes this.
  4. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,147
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    The max torque for an M14x1.5 high tensile bolt/stud is well in excess of 200nm
    It took about 100nm to pull the Greystone studs into their seat in the hub
    I probably don't need to explain further other than if they were so tight as to exceed the max torque of the stud I'd be checking if they were the correct ones.
    Pulling wheel studs in is a normal practice (thou common sense and experience need to prevail)
    Not sure why Brickwerks have that in their instructions other than to ward off total idiots with no mechanical aptitude.
     
  5. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    20,091
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Had an issue years ago when I put mags on the T3 Caravelle - the offset was wrong on them :mad:
     
    Mr Beckstar likes this.
  6. Mr Beckstar

    Mr Beckstar Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,060
    Location:
    Bateau Bay, NSW
    Yes Harry’s wheel studs are also too short. They don’t actually screw into the head of the nut at all. They only make it the full length of the shank which is only about 1.5 mm wall thickness. Add to that, I’ve been running with only 4 wheel nuts on 3 wheels and only 3 wheel nuts on one wheel for a short time whilst I tried to source extra wheel nuts. A bit of a concern huh. Anyway, I’ve got 20 wheel nuts now; just need longer studs.
     
    Grantus likes this.
  7. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,147
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    3/4 of stud diameter of thread engagement was an old rule of thumb from an old wheel guy I talked to. Not a lot of margin for loosely goosed tho[/QUOTE]


    Not a good idea
    I would consider double the stud diameter to be more appropriate
     
  8. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,147
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    you gota do something about that before there's a disaster
     
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  9. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,476
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    You must have big nuts. There is no use going longer than full engagement of the nut.

    I have seen that warning too many times from professionals to ignore it.

    That is not entirely correct. It depends on the wheels.
     
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  10. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,476
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    I had that problem with my T2. If I torqued the nuts to 80ft/lbs they would sheer off. I bought some thinner washers from ROH (my wheels were Aunger) and that allowed about 2 threads into the hex part of the nuts. I may have some spare washers at home if you are going to the Nationals or I could give them to Luckyphil.
     
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  11. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,147
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
    Not really . Think about it. If you have tapered hole wheels (and nuts) do you really think the wall thickness left under the nuts when done up are the same as steel wheels?

    Seems you have the shits with me somehow.
     
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  12. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    9,476
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    Standard T3 mags use the same studs as steel wheels. If you used them on a T2 you would use standard studs.

    No way. You have never annoyed or offended me. I was just pointing out some facts.
     
    Mr Beckstar likes this.
  13. rstucke

    rstucke Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    1,147
    Location:
    Wamberal NSW AUS
     
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