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Where can I buy a vw kombi engine?

Discussion in 'Resto Corner' started by Sam Constable, Nov 3, 2014.

  1. Sam Constable

    Sam Constable New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Gladstone
    Hi all,

    I have recently become the proud owner of a 1974 kombi :) It is currently engineless so my first step to start the restoration is to purchase an engine.

    My first question is where are the best places to buy kombi engines and parts? Secondly, what type of engine would best suit every day/highway use (type 1,2,3,4 and what capacity)?

    Thanks,

    Sam.
     
  2. Mellow Yellow 74

    Mellow Yellow 74 Active Member

    Messages:
    847
    Location:
    Sydney
    Your 1974 would have had an 1800 engine originally but if you want to stay with a stock air cooled engine you probably want to get a 2000 engine for a bit more torque and power.
     
  3. 68BUS

    68BUS Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,635
    Location:
    Brisbane
    What is your budget? A good engine will cost you 8-10k possibly a bit less but if you have nothing to start with then that is about what to factor in.
    You can always list a wanted advert on here and Aussie Vee Dubbers site and get a second hand one.
    A decent second hand engine will cost 1-2k.

    If you are in the new engine budget category then I strongly recommend giving a fella called Matt Berry a call. His in Sunshine Coast Qld which is not too far from you if you are in Gladstone (assuming that is the Mid QLD one).
    He is a guru with engines and can help you out. It may be that he has a second hand engine there is can recondition for you for a smidge less? Not to sure. But I have spoken with many people who run his gear and they are happy and I personally have spoken with him about my future upgrades and he seems like an honest fella.

    Matt Berry Motorsports
    5 Coach Way, Lake Macdonald Qld 4563
    Phone: (07) 5472 0212
    Email mattberrymotorsports@y7mail.com

    Otherwise there is Peter at Custom Vee Dub. Also a very honest fella who has a mechanics work shop as oposed to a specilist engine builder. But would still build a good engine I think.
    I believe that Conti Engines at Bribie are open again and they have a good rep.

    Or in NSW. You have Rod Penrose who does a large range of sizes from stock to racing.
    Or Stan Pobjoy who does his signature 1916cc which is tried and true.

    Or there is also Steve Muller at Kombi Rescue. I assume he builds engines as he has a mechanics shop and a racing pedigree. I have spoken with him on the phone and he seems like a great guy to deal with.
     
  4. cbus

    cbus Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    13,564
    Location:
    sunshine coast
    for comparison
    this would need a second hand motor for all the tinware and bolt on bits. Most of the bits such as carbs ,dissy and alt would probably need refurbishment to get the thing running reliably.
    add core price if you dont have a useable engine case to supply. Transport costs.
    http://cbbvw.com.au/index.php?optio...ct_id=87&virtuemart_category_id=27&Itemid=483

    the turnkey option. ready to bolt in with new or reconditioned carbs ,tinware,dissy,coil,all the other engine bits,tested and tuned will cost the sort of money Brad is talking.
    you would also add on top of that, new clutch kit ,accelerator cable,fuel pump? foam engine seal and a few other bits. while engine is out drop gearbox and do the gearbox selector bushes and joins, bowden tube, cable, fresh oil ,CV's. repack wheel bearings.

    still want a kombi ? :(

    on the plus side,
    a fully reco engine and ancilleries will be reliable[with proper servicing] for many years and give better performance and economy . Less fiddling and more driving. Less stress.
     
    Last edited: Nov 4, 2014
  5. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    22,282
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Don't forget to renew all fuel lines - including the fuel vapour system connectors (fuel line size & type) - easy job while engine out & the fuel filler neck.
     
  6. Miss Rosie

    Miss Rosie Active Member

    Messages:
    100
    Location:
    cairns
    Try Geoff Scott of Maryborough QLD 0407 968 021. I have recently bought a type 4 2L engine from him...very happy.
     
  7. Sam Constable

    Sam Constable New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Gladstone
    Hey everyone.
    Thanks heaps for all the responses, i really appreciate it. As I'm new to the world of Kombis its been great to talk to some professionals so once again thanks for the contacts.
    Also I have been trying to respond on this thread over the last week but the page kept crashing. So I gave up until now..
    Now my current situation is, I have acquired a complete 1600 twin port (not running) through some deep digging (decided it would be more fun, cheaper and rewarding to try a rebuild).
    My questions this time are, I would like to bore it to a larger capacity. Care to share some knowledge, tips, gearbox compatibility, negatives or recommended sizes? Any info really.
    I have been informed that the suspected reason for it not running is that one of the valves is stuck. If i try to manually make a revolution, it will rotate 359 degrees either way and then stop. Any ideas or suggestions?
    Oh and lastly recommendations for parts distributors both in as and out? The only decent one i have found with a extensive range is volks.com.au but they stock more beetle then kombi.

    Thanks!
     
  8. Performance Upholstery

    Performance Upholstery New Member

    Messages:
    28
    Location:
    brisbane
  9. Kai

    Kai Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,794
    Location:
    Sydney, NSW
    Problem with buying secondhand is that you do not know the condition of the engine. It may be worth zip if the case is no good.

    Its all well and good to want to do your own stuff. But there are things to look out for that you need a keen eye. casting flaws bore wear and things like that.

    I recommend you take it to one of the above mentioned workshops and get them to tear it down and have it looked through. Once you start building the costs can blow out easily.

    Case align bore, camshaft, crankshaft, bearings, barrels and pistons, cylinder heads, rocker gear, oil pump, carb kits, alternators, among other ancillaries.

    An engine is something that you want done once and done right.

    Gone are the days of cheap quick fixes for these vehicles. If you want something to last, shell out for it once and get it done properly. There is nothing cheap about owning a kombi.
     
  10. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,365
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    1600 engines were available in '74 and '75. You can tell as they did not have the top access hatch.
     
  11. Sam Constable

    Sam Constable New Member

    Messages:
    4
    Location:
    Gladstone
    hey Kai, I do plan on doing this properly the first time and not being tight with funds as I live in a boring industrial town with nothing to do.. except rebuild a kombi engine ;) I do expect this to be more difficult then first thought. Im just hoping the result will be more rewarding then slapping an off shelf engine. Even though I may not YET have the most extensive knowledge of car mechanics, I am surrounded by some great knowledge and experience. Also I could not imagine a better engine to learn then the classic air cooled vw :)

    and Phill, I think you may be right. I spent some time looking up numbers and what not from the shell and parts. I believe it did originally come with a 1600 as standard.

    Thanks :)
     
  12. Kai

    Kai Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,794
    Location:
    Sydney, NSW
    all commercials up to 75 had 1600 and most kombis (model number 3) had 1600 engines up until 75. was the microbus that got the type 4 engine (in most cases)
     
  13. syncro

    syncro Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    10,365
    Location:
    Southern Highlands
    The 1600 was the standard engine on all models until the 2 litre in 1976.
    The type 4 engine (1700/1800) was optional on all models except the single cab and dual cab ute.
     
  14. Kai

    Kai Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    4,794
    Location:
    Sydney, NSW
    Ever knowledgable. Thanks phill.
     
  15. Jim981

    Jim981 Member

    Messages:
    57
    Location:
    Cooranbong
    Couple on ebay at the moment. Search kombi. One 2l, one 1800.
     
  16. KahunaKombi

    KahunaKombi Super Moderator Staff Member

    Messages:
    22,282
    Location:
    Bracken Ridge, Qld
    Place to start for parts - http://www.thebusstop.com.au/busstore/ , vollks.com.au is as you said, Mick Motors in Northgate Qld http://www.mickmotors.com.au/ and also Just Kampers Australia. Deal with a place called Classic VeeDub in Rydalmere NSW at your own risk if someone recommends them to you.

    In regards to an engine - best to check the transmission/drive train you have in it first to confirm if it is a 1600 box or 1700 or 1800 or 2000 and go from there as over the years someone may have swapped things around from original. You may decide to go with a specific engine only to find it won't couple up to the transmission properly.

    Beef up an engine too much and you can end up with a gearbox that ends up working the engine harder - eg. 3000rpm @ 100kph may end up 3800rpm (based on a 1600 box hooked up to a 2.1 litre stroker engine I had yrs ago).
     
  17. 77bay

    77bay Active Member

    Messages:
    1,361
    Location:
    Woody Point
    Hey Sam, I've got a fully rebuilt 2 litre with a 104 cam, running a single 38 weber carb for better low down torque. A vintage speed exhaust and all tinware powdercoated. New clutch and connected to the original box, only problem is it comes with the whole bus! New rubbers all round,doors and ignition all keyed alike, scat shifter, wood rimmed steering wheel, the list goes on. Unfinished project, grab a bargian, get the motor bus is free! $6000 pm if interested mate.
     

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